Joanna Timmermans

Baccio Beauty&Makeup
Małgorzata Pindur
ARKANA - Anna Marcjasz i

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The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin,
primarily comprising keratinocytes in progressive
stages of differentiation. Keratinocytes produce
the protein keratin and are the major building
blocks (cells) of the epidermis. As the epidermis is
avascular (contains no blood vessels), it is entirely
dependent on the underlying dermis for nutrient
delivery and waste disposal through the basement
membrane

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 The prime function of the epidermis is to act as a
physical and biological barrier to the external
environment, preventing penetration by irritants
and allergens.
 it prevents the loss of water and maintains
internal homeostasis
 The epidermis is composed of layers; most body
parts have four layers, but those with the thickest
skin have five.

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 Stratum corneum (horny layer);
 Stratum lucidum (only found in thick skin – that
is, the palms of the hands, the soles of the feet
and the digits);
 Stratum granulosum (granular layer);
 Stratum spinosum (prickle cell layer);
 Stratum basale (germinative layer).

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 The epidermis also contains other cell structures. Keratinocytes make up
around 95% of the epidermal cell population – the others being melanocytes,
Langerhans cells and Merkel cells

 Keratinocytes - are formed by division in the stratum basale. As they move up

through the stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum, they differentiate to
form a rigid internal structure of keratin, microfilaments and microtubules
(keratinisation). The outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, is
composed of layers of flattened dead cells (corneocytes) that have lost their
nucleus. These cells are then shed from the skin (desquamation); this complete
process takes approximately 28 days.
 Corneocytes have a complex mixture of lipids and proteins inbetween, these
intercellular lipids are broken down by enzymes from keratinocytes to
produce a lipid mixture of ceramides (phospholipids), fatty acids and
cholesterol. These molecules are arranged in a highly organised fashion,
fusing with each other and the corneocytes to form the skin’s lipid barrier
against water loss and penetration by allergens and irritants

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 Melanocytes - found in the stratum basale and are scattered among the
keratinocytes along the basement membrane at a ratio of one melanocyte to 10
basal cells. They produce the pigment melanin, manufactured from tyrosine,
which is an amino acid, packaged into cellular vesicles called melanosomes, and
transported and delivered into the cytoplasm of the keratinocytes
 The main function of melanin is to absorb ultraviolet (UV) radiation to protect us
from its harmful effects.
 Skin colour is determined not by the number of melanocytes, but by the number
and size of the melanosomes). It is influenced by several pigments, including
melanin, carotene and haemoglobin. Melanin is transferred into the keratinocytes
via a melanosome; the colour of the skin therefore depends of the amount of
melanin produced by melanocytes in the stratum basale and taken up by
keratinocytes.
 Melanin occurs in two primary forms:
 Eumelanin – exists as black and brown;
 Pheomelanin – provides a red colour.
 Skin colour is also influenced by exposure to UV radiation, genetic factors and
hormonal influences

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 Langerhans cells - These are antigen (micro-
organisms and foreign proteins)-presenting cells
found in the stratum spinosum. They are part of
the body’s immune system and are constantly on
the lookout for antigens in their surroundings so
they can trap them and present them to T-helper
lymphocytes, thereby activating an immune
response

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 Merkel cells - These cells are only present in
very small numbers in the stratum basale. They
are closely associated with terminal filaments of
cutaneous nerves and seem to have a role in
sensation, especially in areas of the body such as
palms, soles and genitalia.

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 The dermis forms the inner layer of the skin and is much thicker
than the epidermis (1-5mm). Situated between the basement
membrane zone ( a narrow, undulating, multi-layered structure
lying between the epidermis and dermis, which supplies cohesion
between the two layers Tt is composed of two layers – lamina
lucida, lamina densa) and the subcutaneous layer, the primary role
of the dermis is to sustain and support the epidermis. The main
functions of the dermis are:
 Protection;
 Cushioning the deeper structures from mechanical injury;
 Providing nourishment to the epidermis;
 Playing an important role in wound healing.

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 The network of interlacing connective tissue, which is its
major component, is made up of collagen, in the main, with
some elastin. Scattered within the dermis are several
specialised cells (mast cells and fibroblasts) and structures
(blood vessels, lymphatics, sweat glands and nerves).
 The epidermal appendages also lie within the dermis or
subcutaneous layers, but connect with the surface of the skin

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 Layers of dermis:
 The more superficial papillary dermis - is the thinner layer, consisting of
loose connective tissue containing capillaries, elastic fibres and some
collagen
 The deeper reticular dermis - consists of a thicker layer of dense connective
tissue containing larger blood vessels, closely interlaced elastic fibres and
thicker bundles of collagen (White and Butcher, 2005). It also contains
fibroblasts, mast cells, nerve endings, lymphatics and epidermal appendages
 Surrounding these structures is a viscous gel that:
 Allows nutrients, hormones and waste products to pass through the dermis;
 Provides lubrication between the collagen and elastic fibre networks;
 Gives bulk, allowing the dermis to act as a shock absorber

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 The fibroblast is the major cell type of the dermis and its main function
is to synthesise collagen, elastin and the viscous gel within the dermis.
 Collagen – which gives the skin its toughness and strength – makes up
70% of the dermis and is continually broken down and replaced;
 Elastin fibres give the skin its elasticity .However both are affected by
increasing age and exposure to UV radiation, which results in sagging and
stretching of the skin as the person gets older and/or is exposed to greater
amounts of UV radiation
 Mast cells contain granules of vasoactive chemicals (the main one being
histamine). They are involved in moderating immune and inflammatory
responses in the skin
 Blood vessels in the dermis form a complex network and play an
important part in thermoregulation.

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 The hypodermis is the subcutaneous layer lying
below the dermis; it consists largely of fat. It
provides the main structural support for the skin,
as well as insulating the body from cold and
aiding shock absorption. It is interlaced with
blood vessels and nerves.

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 Protection - Mechanical, thermal and other physical
injury; harmful agents; excessive loss of moisture and
protein; harmful effects of UV radiation.
 Thermoregulation - is to protect the body from cold or
heat, and maintain a constant core temperature. This is
achieved by alterations to the blood flow through the
cutaneous vascular bed. During warm periods, the vessels
dilate, in cold periods, the blood vessels constrict,
 Sensation - Skin is the ‘sense-of-touch’ organ that triggers
a response if we touch or feel something, including things
that may cause pain.
 Oily Dry

Normal Combina
Sensitive
tion

 Normal skin type - is essentially skin that is well

balanced; it is not too dry or oily, not too
sensitive and has very few imperfections.
Characterized by small pores, an even skin tone
and soft texture, normal skin is what many would
consider to be the ideal skin type.
 Dry skin – can be caused by issues with the
skin’s natural moisture barrier, by external factors
such as cold weather and excessive
washing/inappropriate usage of cosmetics,
medication or bad hydration. In addition to
texture, this skin type often appears dull with
some redness and itching. On a positive note, dry
skin is characterized by small pores and is
usually not acne-prone however tends to get
older quicker than other types.
 Oily skin - is typically the result of excess sebum
production. This is most widely attributed to internal rather
than external biological factors. For instance, some people
have a genetic predisposition to producing more sebum than
others; hormonal changes can cause an increase in sebum
production, which commonly occurs in adolescence.
However some beauty rutines may potentiate sebum
production.
 Oily skin is characterized by:
 Shiny appearance
 Slick or greasy feel
 Enlarge/visibled pores
 Oily skin - is characterized by two areas: oily and normal or dry
skin. Typically, combination skin presents as an oily T-zone—
the forehead, nose and chin—with dry skin elsewhere on the
face. The T-zone is typically oilier because it has a higher
concentration of oil glands.
 While anyone can have dry or oily patches of skin on occasion,
those with combination skin will consistently or recurrently
experience the same dryness and oiliness. Often, the T-zone will
feel greasy and appear shiny; elsewhere it will feel rough and
appear dull.
 Different degrees of combination skin also exist – the T-zone
may be slightly oily, while the rest of the face will fall within the
normal to dry range.

 Sensitive skin – is often atributed to impaired
skin barrier function or an overactive immune
system. It can be caused by a genetic
predisposition, triggered or worsened by
environmental irritants and allergens such as
animal dander, pollen, makeup, lack of some
ingridiens in the skin structure.
 Skin can have minor or severe sensitivity,
identified by blotchiness, patches of redness,
peeling, itching or burning.
 Acne - is an inflammatory disorder of the skin, In healthy skin, the
sebaceous glands make sebum that empties onto the skin surface through
the pore, which is an opening in the follicle. Keratinocytes, a type of skin
cell, line the follicle. Normally as the body sheds skin cells, the
keratinocytes rise to the surface of the skin. When someone has acne, the
hair, sebum, and keratinocytes stick together inside the pore. This
prevents the keratinocytes from shedding and keeps the sebum from
reaching the surface of the skin. The mixture of oil and cells allows
bacteria(propionibacetrium acne) that normally live on the skin to grow in
the plugged follicles and cause inflammation—swelling, redness, heat,
and pain. When the wall of the plugged follicle breaks down, it spills the
bacteria, skin cells, and sebum into nearby skin, creating lesions or
pimples.
 The following factors may increase your risk for developing acne:
 Hormones. An increase in androgens, which are male sex hormones, may
lead to acne. These increase in both boys and girls normally during
puberty and cause the sebaceous glands to enlarge and make more sebum.
Hormonal changes related to pregnancy can also cause acne.
 Family history. Researchers believe that it is more likely to get acne if
ones parents had acne.
 Medications. Certain medications, ones that contain hormones,
corticosteroids, and lithium, can cause acne.
 Age. People of all ages can get acne, but it is more common in teens.
 Atopic Dermatitis (eczema) - a common skin condition that can affect infants,
children and adults. The conditio of chronić inflammation with itchy, dry patches
thatcan affect almost any area of the body but is most common on the arms and
legs, particularly behind the knees and in the crook of the elbow. It can also affect
the skin around the eyes and the eyelids and the hands. It is characterized by red to
brownish-gray patches, severe itching, and skin that can become thick, scaly and
irritated from prolonged scratching.
 It appears to be the result of a built-in defect of the skin that tends to run in
families. This defect causes the skin to lose water and to become dry compared to
normal skin. Eczema is not contagious and is not related to your general health.
 Hot and cold weather often aggravate atopic dermatitis as well.
 Recently doctors have drawn a connection between the condition and certain
allergic reactions, particularly asthma and peanut allergies. It is also believed that
a combination of dry, sensitive skin and a malfunction of the immune system
leaves certain individuals more prone to the illness.
 Couperose skin – a very common skin conditio in which genetics,
immune system reactions, environmental factors, exposure to certain
microorganisms, and dysfunction of the nerves that control blood vessels
play a role in its development.
 The blood vessels in our skin dilate when we exercise, drink alcohol, or
are exposed to extreme weather, causing a rush of blood to the face that
makes our skin flush. While healthy capillaries expand and contract to
make room for the increase in blood, capillaries with poor elasticity
remain dilated— eventually causing couperose.
 Fair, dry skin types are more vulnerable to couperose than darker skin
types. Other risk factors for couperose include exposure to harsh or
extreme temperatures, sun exposure, stress, high blood pressure,
consuming spicy foods.
 Rosacea - a very common face rash affecting adults (usually above 40)It is a skin
condition that is related to many factors affecting your general health as it is a
autoimmune condition. Rosacea is a mixture of inflammation (gut bacteria) and
blood vessel sensitivity. There are three stages of this disorder.
 In the first stage the face gets red. This redness sometimes merges into the normal
variants of ruddy or blushy complexion types. It often persists after exposure to
extreme weather conditions or after exposure to irritants. With time, small blood
vessels develop making the redness more noticeable. Many patients will develop
stinging or burning sensations and the skin will often feel tight.
 In the second stage of rosacea, the redness covers a larger area of the face. Slight
swelling, pimples, and pustules develop. This is especially noticeable on the nose,
cheeks, and chin. As the condition progresses, prominent facial pores can develop.
 The third stage is characterized by swelling and growth of the nose and central
facial areas. At times the ears may be involved as well. This can be very
disfiguring. This stage is known as rhinophyma. Most patients do not progress to
the third stage of rosacea
 Melasma - is a skin condition marked by large areas of darkening on the
skin of the face. The tan or brown markings can appear on the forehead,
cheeks and jaw and in certain rare cases may also occur on the forearms.
 There are no other symptoms beside discoloration but the discoloration
can be marked enough to cause embarrassment. The condition occurs
almost entirely among women, though ver rarely it can also occur in men.
 it is usually connected with imbalances in hormone levels, it tends to
occur most commonly in women in their reproductive years or during
menopaus
 a connection between melasma and increased levels of progesterone has
been discovered. This finding has been further solidified by the fact that
women who are taking oral contraceptives are at risk of developing
melasma.
 Sunlight is a major factor in the development of melasma as well. Increased sun
exposure is thought to be the primary trigger for this as well as other skin
disorders.
 PIH - Post Inflammatory Hiperpigmentation - follows
damage to the epidermis and/or dermis with deposition of
melanin within the keratinocytes (skin cells) and/or dermis.
 Inflammation in the epidermis stimulates melanocytes to
increase melanin synthesis and to transfer the pigment to
surrounding keratinocytes (epidermal melanosis). If
the basal layer is injured, melanin pigment is released and
subsequently trapped by macrophages in the papillary
dermis (dermal melanosis or pigment incontinence).

 Stretch marks - (striae) are indented streaks that appear
on the abdomen, breasts, hips, buttocks or other places
on the body. They're common in pregnant women,
especially during the last trimester. The cause of stretch
marks is abrupt stretching of the skin. Their severity is
affected by several factors, including your genetics and
the degree of stress on the skin. Level of the hormone
cortisol also might play a role. Cortisol — a hormone
produced by the adrenal glands — weakens elastic fibers
in the skin.
 Cellulite - Cellulite is a term for the formation of lumps and dimples in the skin. The exact
cause of cellulite is unknown, but it appears to result from an interaction between the
connective tissue in the dermatological layer that lies below the surface of the skin, and the
layer of fat that is just below it.
 In women, the fat cells and connective tissue in this layer are arranged vertically.
 If the fat cells protrude into the layer of skin, this gives the appearance of cellulite.
 In men, the tissue has a criss-cross structure, which may explain why are less likely to have
cellulite than women.
 Hormones like estrogen, insulin, noradrenaline, thyroid hormones, and prolactin play an
important role in cellulite development
 One theory is that as estrogen in women decreases in the approach to menopause, blood flow
to the connective tissue under the skin also decreases. Lower circulation means less oxygen
in the area, resulting in lower collagen production. Fat cells also enlarge, as estrogen levels
fall.
 These factors combine to makes the fat deposits more visible. As the fat under the skin
protrudes through weakening connective tissue, the familiar dimpling effect results.
 Age also causes the skin to becomes less elastic, thinner, and more likely to sag. This
 Dark circles under eyes -are defined as bilateral, round,
homogeneous pigment macules on the infraorbital regions.
DC are caused by multiple etiologic factors that include
dermal melanin deposition, postinflammatory
hyperpigmentation secondary to atopic or allergic contact
dermatitis, periorbital edema, superficial location of
vasculature, and shadowing due to skin laxity.