Twill Weave

Part -3
(Curved, broken, Transposed,elongated)

PRESENTED BY:
KRITI GAUR
FACULTY, G.W.P.C, FACULTY
Elongated twill :

Elongated twill is constructed by advancing the points of

intersection two or more threads in one direction and one thread
in the other direction. The angle of twill line is determined by the
step number (the rate of advancement from one interlacing point
to the next). The angle of elongated twill is either below 450 or
above 450.

Elongated twill can be constructed in two different ways:

i) By using step number
ii) By selecting a base line
By using step number: If the step no of elongated is two; then if we
take only odd number of warp threads from the basic twill for
weave plan, the step number of the produced design automatically
become two.

By selecting a base line: Here at first a step number is to be

selected. In such a way that the repeat of base line become divisible
by that step number. For example, repeat of base line: 10÷2=5 ends
repeat, 15÷3=5 ends repeat.etc.

There are two types of elongated twill:

❶ Warp way elongated twill
❷ Weft way elongated twill
Warp way elongated twill:

Step upward at least two instead of one in each warp.

The angle of warp way elongated twill is above 450.
When the repeat size of basic twill is even number, then
the no. of warp yarn in a repeat size of elongated twill is
half of the no. of warp yarn of basic twill and no. of weft
yarn is same as the no. of weft yarn of basic twill.
When the repeat size of basic twill is odd number then
the repeat size of elongated twill is same as basic twill.
Straight draft is used
Weft way elongated twill:
Step downward at least two instead of one in each weft.
The angle of warp way elongated twill is below 450
When the repeat size of basic twill is even number, then
the no. of weft yarn in a repeat size of elongated twill is
half of the no. of weft yarn of basic twill and no. of warp
yarn is same as the no. of warp yarn of basic twill.
When the repeat size of basic twill is odd number then
the repeat size of elongated twill is same as basic twill.
Straight draft is used
Combined Twill
It is formed by combination two regular twill and arranging them alternately with
each others.
It is capable of producing compact and firm textures.
Types:
i) Warp way combined twill
ii) Weft way combined twill
The repeat size of two basic twill weave may be equal or different.
In warp way combined twill, divided draft is used. The heald shafts are divided into
two groups, first groups control the first design and second groups controls the
second design.
In weft way combined twill, straight draft is used.
Repeat size calculation:
a) If the repeat sizes of two basic twill are same, then
Warp way combination:
Warp yarns of new design=Warp yarns of basic twill x 2
Weft yarns of new design=Weft yarns of basic twill
Weft way combination:
Warp yarns of new design=Warp yarns of basic twill
Weft yarns of new design=Weft yarns of basic twill x 2
b) If the repeat sizes of two basic twill are not same, then

Warp way combination:

Warp yarns of new design=LCM of no. warp yarns of basic twill x 2
Weft yarns of new design=LCM of no. weft yarns of basic twill

Weft way combination:

Warp yarns of new design=LCM of no. warp yarns of basic twill
Weft yarns of new design=LCM of no. weft yarns of basic twill x 2
Note: LCM means lowest common multiple
Broken or reversed twill
Features of broken or reversed twill
It is formed by breaking the twill line of basic twill.
A large variety of attractive effects can be produced by this twill.
It is formed by dividing the basic twill repeat in two, three, four or
more groups.
Normally straight draft is used to produce this weave.

It has no directional effect.

Types: i) Warp way
ii) Weft way

Uses: Shirting, Siting, Jeans, designed fabric etc

Rearranged /Transposed Twill:
Features of rearranged or transposed twill
It is produced by the rearrangement or transposition of the
original order of the threads in the regular basic twill.

This types of construction produces attractive designs.

Straight draft is used.
Appearance of some rearranged twill is same as broken twill.

This twill weave is constructed by the following different methods.

i) By rearranging the yarns individually
ii) By rearranging the yarn group wise
iii) By cork-screw weave. They are two types
❶ Odd no. cork–screw weave
❷ Even no. cork-screw weave