ELECTRICAL WIRES 9-EINSTEIN & CURIE Prepared by: Sir April SPLICING AND JOINTING
Splices and joints are essentially the same thing.
All wire joints must also be taped with electrical tape after soldering. Splice joint is a method of joining two members end to end in woodworking. The splice joint is used when the material being joined is not available in the length required. DIFFERENT ELECTRICAL WIRES SPLICES AND JOINTS 1. RAT TAIL JOINTS
Is used to join conductors in outlet
boxes or when fixture leads are connected through conductors. The joints are made by skinning about 2 inches, the end of the conductor is to be joined. Then twist the bare conductors about six times. 2. WESTERN UNION SHORT- TIE SPLICE
To make the splice, the wire are first
skinned for about 3 inches at the ends. They are then placed in crossed position about 1 inch from the insulation. Four or five short turns are then wrapped on each side of the longest twist, and the free ends cut off and squeezed down closed to the straight position of the wire so that they will not extend over the surface of the short turns and permit the sharp to cut through the tape with the splice to be wrapped. 3. WESTERN UNION LONG- TIE SPLICE
Used extensively for outside wiring and
is quite similar to the short tie splice. It is also being used for interior wiring. The difference is that a number of long twist are made before wrapping the end turns. The wire for this splice are bared about 4 ½ inches. They are then placed in the form of an X at a point midway between the insulation and the end of the base wire. 4. BRITANNIA SPLICE It is used in interior wiring where solid wires of no. 6 AWG gauge or larger sizes are to be joined and where large wire connectors or pliers are not at hand. The two wires are based for about 4 inches in a no. 6 wire. About ½ inch of the extreme end of each beat to almost a right angle to the straight portion of the conductor. A wrapping wire is made of no. 18 bare wire copper is then cut to about 6ft. in length and prepared by cleaning and bending in half. 5. SCARFED SPLICE Used only on a large solid wire where there is an objection to the bulkiness of the Western Union or Britannia Splice. The wires are bared about for about 3 inches, when a no. 6 wire is used. The bared wire is then filed to a wedge shape starting about ½ inch from the insulations. A piece of no. 18 bare copper wire is cut to about 5 ft. in length and prepared by cleaning and bending in half. 6. MULTIPLE WRAPPED CABLE SPLICE Is used more extensively on small strand wires and cables because these stands are more pliable and may be wound together without much difficulty. To make the splice, the ends of the conductors are skinned at the distance of about 6 inches. The strands are cleaned and spread about apart. Next, strands are cut about 3 inches from the insulation to right angle with the conductor. Strands of both conductors are then laced together, one group of strands wounds in the opposite direction. 7. PLAIN TAP or TEE JOINTS Is used to a great extent joining a tap or other conductor to a through conductor, as for example, a branch or main circuit. To make the joint, skin the tap wire about 2 inches and the main wire about 1 inch. Next, the wires are crossed intersecting about ¼ inch from the insulation of the tap wire and the main wire. a hook or sharp bend is then made in the tap and about 5 or 6 turns wound around the main wire. The joint is soldered and tape. 8. KNOTTED or LOOP, TAP JOINT It is very strong joint and will not untwist even enough strain is placed upon it. It is occasionally used in practice, particularly for temporary lighting systems, where time is not taken to solder joints. To make the joint using no. 14 AWG wire, the tap wire is skinned about 3 inches and is then placed over the insulation of the tap and main wire. The tap wire is bent and hooked over the main wire and brought forward and bent over itself. 9. WRAPPED TAP, TEE JOINT It is used on large solid conductors where is difficult to wrap the heavy tap wire around the main wire. When a no. 6 AWG wire is used, both the main wire and the tap wire are skinned about 4 inches. The tap wire is bent into an L shape about ½ inches from the insulation so that it will rest along the side of the main wire. A wrapping wire is then prepared using size no. 18 bare conductors terminating beyond the bent of tap wire and up to the installation of the main conductor. 10. ORDINARY CABLE TAP or TEE JOINT
It is used where large stranded wire or
cables are tapped to a through conductor. To make the joint, the main strands should be scraped through with a knife blade or sandpaper. The tap wire of similar wire size cable should be skinned about 6 inches distance and the strands of the tap into the shape. The main cable is placed into this V-shaped space and forced down to within 1 inch from the insulation of the tap conductor. 11. SPLIT CABLE TAP or TEE JOINT
It is used where stranded cables or wire are tapped to a
through conductor. To make this joint, the main wire is skinned a distance of 5 inches no. 14 AWG size is used and the strands thoroughly scraped as for the ordinary cable tap. The strands are divided in half by forcing the screwdriver through the center of the bared portion of the main wire. The tap wire is prepared by skinning it about 6 inches, scraping each strand until thoroughly cleaned and fanning out the strands so that they can be push around the space in the main wire. A space about 1 ½ inch should be left between the 12. THE THROUGH FIXTURE JOINT
It is used where fixtures are connected to
branch wires at an intermediate point. In making this joint, the end of one conductor is skinned about 2 inches and the other about 4 inches. At a point ¼ inches away from the insulation of the longer wire, 3 or 4 long twists are made similar to the rat-tail joint. The long bared portion of the long wire is bent over parallel with the free ends. TYPES OF ELECTRICAL WIRES FOR SPLICING AND JOINTING 1. 14-Gauge, AWG
Maximum size of fuse rating: 15-
amp circuits.
Overall Diameter: 0.064 – 0.073
in./1.63 – 1.84 mm. 2. 12-Gauge, AWG
Maximum size of fuse rating: 20-
amp circuits.
Overall Diameter: 0.081 – 0.092
in./2.05 – 2.32 mm. 3. 10-Gauge, AWG
Maximum size of fuse rating: 30-
amp circuits.
Overall Diameter: 0.102 – 0.116
in./2.59 – 2.95 mm. 4. 8-Gauge, AWG
Maximum size of fuse rating: 40-
amp circuits.
Overall Diameter: 0.102 – 0.116
in./2.59 – 2.95 mm. 5. 6-Gauge, AWG
Maximum size of fuse rating: 60-
amp circuits.
Overall Diameter: 0.162 – 0.184
in./4.11 – 4.66 mm. STRANDED WIRE & SOLID WIRE
STRANDED WIRE SOLID WIRE
A metal wire that is made up of Also called as “Solid-Core” or several smaller wires twisted “Single-Strand wire”, consists of together. one piece of metal wire. Useful for wiring breadboards. FOUR WAYS TO SPLICING & JOINTING WIRES HOW TO SPLICE WIRE? FOUR WAYS TO SPLICING & JOINTING WIRES
1. Stripping Wires Before Splicing Them.
2. Using a Twist-On Wire Cap. 3. Installing a Butt Splice. 4. Making a Lineman’s Splice. 1. STRIPPING WIRES BEFORE SPLICING THEM
Disconnect Power from the Wires.
- Unplug the device that you’re splicing wires to if you can. If the wire is in the wall or can’t be unplugged, turn off the circuit leading to the area so you don’t get shocked while working. Strip Back 1in. (2.5cm) of each Wire’s Insulation. - Pick a hole o the wire stripper that’s 1-2 sizes smaller than your wire. Clamp the wire in the hole and pull the stripper towards the end to completely remove the insulation. Repeat the process on the other piece of wire. 1. STRIPPING WIRES BEFORE SPLICING THEM
Slide a 3in (7.6cm) piece of Shrink
Tube onto one of the Wires. - Shrink tube is a made from plastic that gets smaller when it’s heated. Slide a piece of the shrink tube on your wire before you splice them so you can easily slide it into place once you’re finished. 2. USING A TWIST-ON WIRE CAP
Hold the wire ends so they could touch one
another. - Press the exposed end of the wires together so they’re right next to each other. Don’t twist or coil the wires together or else they won’t stay as secure in the wire cap. Twist a wire cap clockwise onto the exposed wires. - Set a wire cap on top of the exposed wires and start twisting it on with your fingers. Turn it clockwise for about 5 seconds so the wires wrap and coil inside of the cap. Lightly tug on the wires to see if they stay in place. If not, tighten the wire cap more. 2. USING A TWIST-ON WIRE CAP
Layer electrical tape around the
wire cap and exposed wires. - Wrap black electrical tape around the bottom of the wire cap so it’s completely covered. Overlap each other layer or tape by half so there’s no chance for exposed wiring. Use a pair of scissor or a utility knife to cut the tape when you’re finished. 3. INSTALLING A BUTT SPLICE
Slide 1 of the exposed wires into the end of
your butt splice. - Butt splices are small tubes with openings on each end to insert wires. Take one of your wires and place it in the center of the butt splice. Push the exposed end until it’s in the middle of the splice. Use a wire crimper 1-quarter of the way in from the end of the splice. - Match the crimper hole to the size of your butt splice. Place the jaws of the crimper ¼ - ½ inch (0.64-1.27cm) from the edge of the butt splice. Squeeze the crimper handles all the way so the wire is held in place. 3. INSTALLING A BUTT SPLICE
Put the 2nd wire in the other side of the
splice and crimp it. - Repeat the process on the other side of the butt splice. When you insert the second wire, make sure it touches the first one inside of the splice. Use your crimper to secure the second wire in place.
Slide the shrink tube over the butt splice.
- Take the shrink tube from one of your wires and completely cover the butt splice. If the shrink tube is too loose or falls off the butt splice, crimp it in place. 3. INSTALLING A BUTT SPLICE
Heat the shrink tube with a heat gun.
- Turn on your heat gun and point the nozzle towards the shrink tubing. Rotate the wire in your hands so the tube shrinks evenly around the splice to insulate the wires. 4. MAKING A LINEMAN’S SPLICE
Form a 90º-angle with each of the exposed
wires. - Bend each of the wires with your fingers or needle-nose pliers into L-shapes. Make sure each side of the angle measures ½ inch (1.3cm) long, so you have space to wrap the wires. Hook the wires together so the corners are touching. - Set one wire onto the other so one L-shape is upside down and the other is right side up. Make sure the corners of the wires are touching one another before moving on. 4. MAKING A LINEMAN’S SPLICE
Coil the end of the upright wire around the
wire perpendicular to it. - Wrap the end of the wire that’s pointing up around the straight piece of the other wire. Make sure the wrap is tight so the wires make a solid connection with one another. Solder the coils together to hold them in place. - Heat up your soldering iron and hold it near your wire coils with your dominant hand. Hold a rod of silver solder with your non- dominant hand next to the tip of your soldering iron. 4. MAKING A LINEMAN’S SPLICE
Move the shrink tube over the soldered
wires. - Slide the tube over the entire splice so none of the wires are exposed the outside. Crimp the tube in place if it moves around easily. Heat the shrink tube with a heat gun until it’s tight. - Turn on your heat gun and point it toward the shrink tube. Spin the wire in your hand to evenly heat the tube so it shrinks around the coils. Continue heating the shrink tube until it’s tight against the wire insulation. END OF DISCUSSION! HAPPY LEARNING