Download as pptx, pdf, or txt
Download as pptx, pdf, or txt
You are on page 1of 35

SPLICING AND JOINTING

ELECTRICAL WIRES
9-EINSTEIN & CURIE
Prepared by: Sir April
SPLICING AND JOINTING

 Splices and joints are essentially the same thing.


 All wire joints must also be taped with electrical tape after soldering.
 Splice joint is a method of joining two members end to end in
woodworking.
 The splice joint is used when the material being joined is not available
in the length required.
DIFFERENT
ELECTRICAL WIRES
SPLICES AND
JOINTS
1. RAT TAIL JOINTS

 Is used to join conductors in outlet


boxes or when fixture leads are
connected through conductors. The
joints are made by skinning about 2
inches, the end of the conductor is to
be joined. Then twist the bare
conductors about six times.
2. WESTERN UNION SHORT- TIE
SPLICE

 To make the splice, the wire are first


skinned for about 3 inches at the ends.
They are then placed in crossed position
about 1 inch from the insulation. Four or
five short turns are then wrapped on
each side of the longest twist, and the
free ends cut off and squeezed down
closed to the straight position of the
wire so that they will not extend over
the surface of the short turns and permit
the sharp to cut through the tape with
the splice to be wrapped.
3. WESTERN UNION LONG- TIE
SPLICE

 Used extensively for outside wiring and


is quite similar to the short tie splice. It
is also being used for interior wiring.
The difference is that a number of long
twist are made before wrapping the end
turns. The wire for this splice are bared
about 4 ½ inches. They are then placed
in the form of an X at a point midway
between the insulation and the end of
the base wire.
4. BRITANNIA SPLICE
 It is used in interior wiring where solid
wires of no. 6 AWG gauge or larger sizes
are to be joined and where large wire
connectors or pliers are not at hand.
 The two wires are based for about 4 inches
in a no. 6 wire. About ½ inch of the
extreme end of each beat to almost a right
angle to the straight portion of the
conductor. A wrapping wire is made of no.
18 bare wire copper is then cut to about 6ft.
in length and prepared by cleaning and
bending in half.
5. SCARFED SPLICE
 Used only on a large solid wire where
there is an objection to the bulkiness of
the Western Union or Britannia Splice.
The wires are bared about for about 3
inches, when a no. 6 wire is used.
 The bared wire is then filed to a wedge
shape starting about ½ inch from the
insulations. A piece of no. 18 bare
copper wire is cut to about 5 ft. in length
and prepared by cleaning and bending in
half.
6. MULTIPLE WRAPPED CABLE
SPLICE
 Is used more extensively on small strand wires
and cables because these stands are more
pliable and may be wound together without
much difficulty.
 To make the splice, the ends of the conductors
are skinned at the distance of about 6 inches.
The strands are cleaned and spread about
apart.
 Next, strands are cut about 3 inches from the
insulation to right angle with the conductor.
Strands of both conductors are then laced
together, one group of strands wounds in the
opposite direction.
7. PLAIN TAP or TEE JOINTS
 Is used to a great extent joining a tap or
other conductor to a through conductor, as
for example, a branch or main circuit.
 To make the joint, skin the tap wire about 2
inches and the main wire about 1 inch.
Next, the wires are crossed intersecting
about ¼ inch from the insulation of the tap
wire and the main wire.
 a hook or sharp bend is then made in the
tap and about 5 or 6 turns wound around
the main wire. The joint is soldered and
tape.
8. KNOTTED or LOOP, TAP JOINT
 It is very strong joint and will not untwist
even enough strain is placed upon it. It is
occasionally used in practice, particularly
for temporary lighting systems, where time
is not taken to solder joints.
 To make the joint using no. 14 AWG wire,
the tap wire is skinned about 3 inches and is
then placed over the insulation of the tap
and main wire.
 The tap wire is bent and hooked over the
main wire and brought forward and bent
over itself.
9. WRAPPED TAP, TEE JOINT
 It is used on large solid conductors where is
difficult to wrap the heavy tap wire around
the main wire.
 When a no. 6 AWG wire is used, both the
main wire and the tap wire are skinned about
4 inches. The tap wire is bent into an L shape
about ½ inches from the insulation so that it
will rest along the side of the main wire.
 A wrapping wire is then prepared using size
no. 18 bare conductors terminating beyond
the bent of tap wire and up to the installation
of the main conductor.
10. ORDINARY CABLE TAP or TEE JOINT

 It is used where large stranded wire or


cables are tapped to a through conductor.
 To make the joint, the main strands should
be scraped through with a knife blade or
sandpaper.
 The tap wire of similar wire size cable
should be skinned about 6 inches distance
and the strands of the tap into the shape.
 The main cable is placed into this V-shaped
space and forced down to within 1 inch
from the insulation of the tap conductor.
11. SPLIT CABLE TAP or TEE JOINT

 It is used where stranded cables or wire are tapped to a


through conductor.
 To make this joint, the main wire is skinned a distance
of 5 inches no. 14 AWG size is used and the strands
thoroughly scraped as for the ordinary cable tap.
 The strands are divided in half by forcing the
screwdriver through the center of the bared portion of
the main wire.
 The tap wire is prepared by skinning it about 6 inches,
scraping each strand until thoroughly cleaned and
fanning out the strands so that they can be push around
the space in the main wire.
 A space about 1 ½ inch should be left between the
12. THE THROUGH FIXTURE JOINT

 It is used where fixtures are connected to


branch wires at an intermediate point.
 In making this joint, the end of one
conductor is skinned about 2 inches and
the other about 4 inches.
 At a point ¼ inches away from the
insulation of the longer wire, 3 or 4 long
twists are made similar to the rat-tail joint.
 The long bared portion of the long wire is
bent over parallel with the free ends.
TYPES OF
ELECTRICAL WIRES
FOR SPLICING AND
JOINTING
1. 14-Gauge,
AWG

Maximum size of fuse rating: 15-


amp circuits.

Overall Diameter: 0.064 – 0.073


in./1.63 – 1.84 mm.
2. 12-Gauge,
AWG

Maximum size of fuse rating: 20-


amp circuits.

Overall Diameter: 0.081 – 0.092


in./2.05 – 2.32 mm.
3. 10-Gauge,
AWG

Maximum size of fuse rating: 30-


amp circuits.

Overall Diameter: 0.102 – 0.116


in./2.59 – 2.95 mm.
4. 8-Gauge,
AWG

Maximum size of fuse rating: 40-


amp circuits.

Overall Diameter: 0.102 – 0.116


in./2.59 – 2.95 mm.
5. 6-Gauge,
AWG

Maximum size of fuse rating: 60-


amp circuits.

Overall Diameter: 0.162 – 0.184


in./4.11 – 4.66 mm.
STRANDED WIRE & SOLID
WIRE

STRANDED WIRE SOLID WIRE


 A metal wire that is made up of  Also called as “Solid-Core” or
several smaller wires twisted “Single-Strand wire”, consists of
together. one piece of metal wire.
 Useful for wiring breadboards.
FOUR WAYS TO
SPLICING &
JOINTING WIRES
HOW TO SPLICE WIRE?
FOUR WAYS TO SPLICING & JOINTING
WIRES

1. Stripping Wires Before Splicing Them.


2. Using a Twist-On Wire Cap.
3. Installing a Butt Splice.
4. Making a Lineman’s Splice.
1. STRIPPING WIRES BEFORE SPLICING
THEM

 Disconnect Power from the Wires.


- Unplug the device that you’re splicing wires to if you can. If the
wire is in the wall or can’t be unplugged, turn off the circuit leading to
the area so you don’t get shocked while working.
 Strip Back 1in. (2.5cm) of each Wire’s
Insulation.
- Pick a hole o the wire stripper that’s 1-2 sizes smaller than your
wire. Clamp the wire in the hole and pull the stripper towards the end
to completely remove the insulation. Repeat the process on the other
piece of wire.
1. STRIPPING WIRES BEFORE SPLICING
THEM

 Slide a 3in (7.6cm) piece of Shrink


Tube onto one of the Wires.
- Shrink tube is a made from plastic that gets smaller when it’s
heated. Slide a piece of the shrink tube on your wire before you
splice them so you can easily slide it into place once you’re
finished.
2. USING A TWIST-ON WIRE CAP

 Hold the wire ends so they could touch one


another.
- Press the exposed end of the wires together so they’re right next to
each other. Don’t twist or coil the wires together or else they won’t
stay as secure in the wire cap.
 Twist a wire cap clockwise onto the exposed
wires.
- Set a wire cap on top of the exposed wires and start twisting it on with
your fingers. Turn it clockwise for about 5 seconds so the wires wrap and coil
inside of the cap. Lightly tug on the wires to see if they stay in place. If not,
tighten the wire cap more.
2. USING A TWIST-ON WIRE CAP

 Layer electrical tape around the


wire cap and exposed wires.
- Wrap black electrical tape around the bottom of the wire cap
so it’s completely covered. Overlap each other layer or tape by
half so there’s no chance for exposed wiring. Use a pair of
scissor or a utility knife to cut the tape when you’re finished.
3. INSTALLING A BUTT SPLICE

 Slide 1 of the exposed wires into the end of


your butt splice.
- Butt splices are small tubes with openings on each end to insert
wires. Take one of your wires and place it in the center of the butt
splice. Push the exposed end until it’s in the middle of the splice.
 Use a wire crimper 1-quarter of the way in
from the end of the splice.
- Match the crimper hole to the size of your butt splice. Place the jaws of the
crimper ¼ - ½ inch (0.64-1.27cm) from the edge of the butt splice. Squeeze
the crimper handles all the way so the wire is held in place.
3. INSTALLING A BUTT SPLICE

 Put the 2nd wire in the other side of the


splice and crimp it.
- Repeat the process on the other side of the butt splice. When you
insert the second wire, make sure it touches the first one inside of the
splice. Use your crimper to secure the second wire in place.

 Slide the shrink tube over the butt splice.


- Take the shrink tube from one of your wires and completely cover the butt
splice. If the shrink tube is too loose or falls off the butt splice, crimp it in
place.
3. INSTALLING A BUTT SPLICE

 Heat the shrink tube with a heat gun.


- Turn on your heat gun and point the nozzle towards the
shrink tubing. Rotate the wire in your hands so the tube
shrinks evenly around the splice to insulate the wires.
4. MAKING A LINEMAN’S SPLICE

 Form a 90º-angle with each of the exposed


wires.
- Bend each of the wires with your fingers or needle-nose pliers into
L-shapes. Make sure each side of the angle measures ½ inch (1.3cm)
long, so you have space to wrap the wires.
 Hook the wires together so the corners are
touching.
- Set one wire onto the other so one L-shape is upside down and the
other is right side up. Make sure the corners of the wires are touching
one another before moving on.
4. MAKING A LINEMAN’S SPLICE

 Coil the end of the upright wire around the


wire perpendicular to it.
- Wrap the end of the wire that’s pointing up around the straight
piece of the other wire. Make sure the wrap is tight so the wires make
a solid connection with one another.
 Solder the coils together to hold them in
place.
- Heat up your soldering iron and hold it near your wire coils with
your dominant hand. Hold a rod of silver solder with your non-
dominant hand next to the tip of your soldering iron.
4. MAKING A LINEMAN’S SPLICE

 Move the shrink tube over the soldered


wires.
- Slide the tube over the entire splice so none of the wires are
exposed the outside. Crimp the tube in place if it moves around easily.
 Heat the shrink tube with a heat gun until
it’s tight.
- Turn on your heat gun and point it toward the shrink tube. Spin the
wire in your hand to evenly heat the tube so it shrinks around the
coils. Continue heating the shrink tube until it’s tight against the wire
insulation.
END OF
DISCUSSION!
HAPPY LEARNING 

You might also like