M05 Erect Stone Memorial and Monument

Module Title: Erecting stone memorials and monument
November 2023
Sendafa Ethiopia
LG #46 LO #1 Plan and prepare for work
Instruction sheet
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
• Recognizing and Adhering Quality Assurance with company's stone masonry operations
• Recognizing and Adhering OH&S requirements for application tasks and workplace
environment
• Determining materials and equipment’s from drawings, site location and specifications.
• Selecting and using Appropriate personal protective equipment
• checking Tools and equipment for service

This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
• Recognize and Adhere Quality Assurance with company's stone masonry operations
• Recognize and Adhere OH&S requirements for application tasks and workplace
environment
• Determine materials and equipment’s from drawings, site location and specifications.
• Select and use Appropriate personal protective equipment
• check Tools and equipment for service
Information sheet 3=- Determining materials and equipment’s from drawings, site
location and specifications
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Sendafa Bake TVET College TVET program title-Structural Construction Work level III
November 2023
Introduction
Definitions of Memorials, Monuments, and Markers
• Memorial means a monument, tombstone, grave marker, tablet or headstone identifying a

grave or graves or name plate or inscription identifying a crypt to preserve remembrance.
• Monument means a large memorial for use on family lots and commonly inscribed only with
the family name.
• Marker means a small individual memorial placed at either the head or foot of a grave. This
may be made of one or more pieces, and is sometimes referred to as a headstone or
footstone.
• Mausoleum means a structure or building for the entombment of human remains in crypts in
a place used, or intended to be used, for cemetery purposes Materials
Type of Stone Used to Make Monuments
There are three basic types of materials that are used to create monuments.
• Granite is the most commonly used material and is available in numerous colors such as,
but not limited to: traditional grays, blacks, a variety of reds, pinks, browns, greens, and near
whites.
• Granite is a common igneous rock found throughout the earth. It is composed mainly of
feldspar and quartz with smaller amounts of additional minerals.
• Granite is used because it resists weathering and abrasion; it bears significant weight and
cabe polished to a shine.
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• Marble has been used for centuries and is well known for its traditional beauty.
• White is themost popular color used in monuments and typically has various degrees of gray
” veining” adding to its attractiveness.
• Marble is made from the metamorphosis of limestone or dolo stone
• Bronze is called the "eternal metal” and is used for flat markers, statuary, and as
ornamentation in combination with granite and marble
Limestone
• Limestone is soft, easily cut and carved and widely available which is why many ancient people
used it. It is particularly susceptible to weathering and will erode when exposed to water and wind.
This is probably why the pyramids were lined with granite, a harder casing stone
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Sandstone
• Sandstone, like limestone, is a sedimentary rock. Sandstone is made of fossilized and solidified
sand. The particles of sand must be between 0.1mm and 2.0mm in diameter to qualify as
sandstone. Smaller particles that solidify are called shale or siltstone.
• The sand is usually amixture of quartz and feldspar grains with calcite, gypsum or clay
cementing the stone.
Tools and equipment
Steel tape
• Steel tapes vary in length from 3 to 30 meters long. You can use them to measure different
lengths, such as
• When you are measuring lengths of moldings and checking wall and building sizes
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A jigsaw is a tool used for cutting arbitrary curves, such as stenciled designs or other custom
shapes,
• into a piece of wood, metal, or other material. It can be used in a more artistic fashion than other
saws, which typically cut in straight lines only.
• In this way, it is similar to the rasp and thechisel.
• Although a jigsaw can be used to cut arbitrary patterns, making a straight cut is more difficult
Compound Sliding MITRE Saw
• A power miter saw, also known as a drop saw, is a power tool used to make a
quick, accurate crosscut in a work piece at a selected angle.

• Common uses include framing operations and the cutting of molding. Most miter saws are
relatively small and portable, with common blade sizes ranging from eight to twelve inches. The
miter saw makes cuts by pulling a spinning circular saw blade down onto a work piece in a short,
controlled motion.
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• The work piece is typically held against the timber, which provides a precise cutting angle
between the plane of the blade and the plane of the longest work piece edge. In standard
position, this angle is fixed at 90°.
Spirit Level
• Spirit levels vary in length and quality. A tradesperson usually purchases a Reputable brand that
guarantees a long life and remains accurate.

• Cheap levels will rarely provide a long accurate life. Different types of spirit levels may be used
by carpenters, stonemasons, bricklayers, other building trades workers, surveyors, mill wrights and
other metalworkers, and in some photographic or video graphic work
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Claw Hammers and Nail Punches
• Impelling tools can be used when installing moldings and linings.
• The claw hammer is used to attach paneling to framework.
• The nail punch is used to drive nail below the surface for sanding and finishing purposes
Straight Edges
• Straight edges are used to align materials, mark pencil lines on walls or floors, to extend the
length of a spirit level and many other uses.
• They need to be handled carefully so as not to cause damage to the edges or face of the
straight edge Straight edges are very useful to check the alignment of wall and floor framing
members.
• It is recommended to have at least two straight edges so that it is possible to use the tool in
restricted work areas
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Information Sheet 4- Workplace and equipment safety requirements
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4.1 Workplace Safety Requirements
• The workplace is full of many types of health and safety hazards, and exposure to these hazards
can be harmful, and sometimes fatal, to employees. OSHA, the U.S. Occupational Safety and
Health Administration, mandates employers to adhere to regulated workplace safety requirements
to eliminate hazards and maintain a safe, accident-free workplace.
4.1.1 Safety Signs
• Many health and safety hazards can be eliminated through the use of proper signage. The
Health and Safety Executive website explains that safety signs must be used at work whenever a
safety hazard has not been able to be completely eliminated by the employer. The many types of
warning and caution signs each have different implications. Danger signs, for instance, are used for
more severely hazardous work areas, while caution signs are used to warn employees of potential
risks.
4.1.2 Personal Protective Equipment
• It is a workplace requirement, per OSHA, for employers to provide their staff with the appropriate
personal protective equipment to keep employees safe when performing their jobs. Personal
protective equipment ranges from goggles to cover the eyes to respiratory devices, and must be
used whenever there are hazardous environments, or when employees are working with flying
particles or objects, chemical hazards or mechanical irritants.
• OSHA explains that employers must make sure that there is enough personal protective
equipment for all employees, and that the equipment fits the employees properly. Goggles that are
too loose, for instance, will not adequately shield and protect the eyes.
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SITE SAFETY RULES
Safety Helmet Must Be Worn
Eye Protection Must Be Worn
Ear Defenders in Designated Areas
Wear Gloves for Manual Handling Tasks
Hi Visibility Clothing Must 0e Worn
Safety Boots Must Be Worn
No Children & Unauthorised Persons

Afl Drivers & Visitors Must Report To Tlie Site Office
4.1.3 Sanitation Requirements
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• Employees have the right to a sanitary work environment, so OSHA has requirements that employers
must abide by to ensure good housekeeping practices. Waste must be disposed of regularly and in a
way that does not cause unsanitary conditions, including spills or odors in public areas. Offices or
enclosed workspaces must be constructed in a way that prevents the entrance of vermin, as rodents and
insects pose a health hazard to people. Toilet facilities must be kept tidy and cleaned regularly with
chemical agents that disinfect bacteria. Spills and leaks must be mopped up and addressed immediately
to avoid any toxicity hazards, as well as to avoid slip-and-fall accidents.
Signpost , 1996 The Health and Safety (Safety Signs and Signals) Regulations
Information Sheet 5. Material, tools and equipment requirements
5.1 tools and equipment requirements

• Proper tools and equipment are essential for the effective operation of any civil works site. Equipping
the construction site with the correct tools and equipment plays an essential role in achieving timely
and good quality results. For every construction activity there is an optimal combination of tools,
equipment and labor. Depending on the nature and content of the works, the technical staff needs to
know which tools to use and how to effectively combine them with manual labor. Once on site,
equipment requires trained operators and supervisory staff who are proficient in its operation and
maintenance. Faulty equipment is a common reason for delays on construction sites. A major
responsibility of the project management is to ensure that tools and equipment are maintained in a
good condition and are readily available when required for the various work activities. When applying
labor-based work methods, the use of hand tools supported with selected items of light equipment can
produce results comparable with those achieved when using only heavy equipment. For every
construction activity there is an optimum combination of equipment and labour. In order to utilize the
equipment and labor in the most effective way, the use of equipment needs to be carefully coordinated
with the output of the work gangs.
5.2 CONSTITUENT MATERIAL
• Because brick masonry is bonded into an integral mass by mortar and grout, it is considered to
be a homogeneous construction. It is the behavior of the combination of materials that
determines the performance of the masonry as a structural element. However, the
performance of a structural masonry element is dependent upon the properties of the
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constituent materials and the interaction of the materials as an assemblage. Therefore, it is
important to first consider the properties of the constituent materials: clay and shale units,
mortar, grout and steel reinforcement. This will be followed by a discussion of the behavior of
their combination as an assemblage
LG #47 LO #2- Construct footings and prepare monument stones
Instruction sheet
• Setting out and excavation
• Measuring & leveling
• Fixing formwork
• Laying out concrete footings
• Placing reinforcement
• Pouring concrete
• Set out and excavation
• Measure & leveling
• Fix formwork
• Lay out concrete footings
• Place reinforcement
• Pour concrete Learning Instructions:
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1 Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
2 Follow the instructions described below 3 to 6.
3 Read the information written in the information “Sheet 1Sheet 2, and Sheet 3”. Sheet 4,
Sheet 5 ,and Sheet 6,
4 Accomplish the “Self-check 1, Self-check 2, and Self-check 3” Self-check 3, Self-check

3 and Self-check 3 in page -6, 11,15,18,21 and 25 respectively.
5 If you earned a satisfactory evaluation from the “Self-check” proceed to “Operation

Sheet 1, Operation Sheet 2, Operation Sheet 3 , Operation Sheet 4,and Operation Sheet 5
in page -26 and 27
6 Do the “LAP test” in page - 27 (if you are ready
Information Sheet 1 Setting out and excavation
• introduction of setting out excavation
• Setting out of building foundation trenches is the process of laying down the excavation line
and centerline on the ground based on the foundation plan. The setting out process is also called
as ground tracing that is performed before commencing the excavation process.
• Once the design of foundation is complete, a setting out plan or foundation layout is prepared
for a suitable scale and the plan is dimensioned accordingly. Before excavations start, the
proposed building must be set out on the site. Getting this wrong can prove very expensive, so
here are a few pointers.
• Setting out involves working out the location and extent of the building on site. Each site is
dfferent, so start by establishing the particular conditions. Use information from territorial
authorities’ records combined with an on-site inspection.
1.1.1 Understand your site
Where construction is being carried out, it’s usually necessary to:
• accurately locate boundary lines
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• determine ground conditions
• verify the location of underground and overhead services
• obtain site levels - it may appear flat or level, but appearances can be deceptive
• accurately verify the position of existing structures, such as the house, garage, outbuildings and
significant trees
• use a contractor with the appropriate carpentry or foundations license
boundary peg boundary peg
500 mm 500 mm
proposed building
2800 mm
boundary
NORTH
boundary
Figure 1.1 Clear set-out with single offset dimensions.
1.2 Excavation procedure for foundation
• Excavation procedure for foundation construction requires site clearance, setting out, excavation
and safety measures based on depth of excavation.
1.2.1 Site Clearance before Excavation for Foundation
• Before the excavation for the proposed foundation is commenced, the site shall be cleared of
vegetation, brushwood, stumps of trees etc. Roots of the trees shall be removed to at least
30 cm below the foundation level. The pits formed due to roots of trees, old foundations etc.
shall be filled up with soil and compacted.
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1.2.2 Setting out Foundation Layout for Excavation
• For setting layout of foundation excavation, a benchmark shall be established at the site by a
masonry pillar and connected to the nearest standard benchmark. Levels of the site should
be taken at 5 to 10 m intervals depending on the terrain and the importance of the building.
• The center lines of the walls are marked by stretching strings across wooden pegs driven at
the ends. The center lines of the perpendicular walls are marked by setting out the right
angle with steel tapes or preferably with a theodolite.
• The setting out of walls shall be facilitated by having a permanent row of pillars (not less than
25 cm side) parallels laid at a suitable distance beyond the periphery of the building so that
they do not foul with the excavation. The pillars shall be located at the junctions of the cross
walls and external wall and shall be bedded sufficiently deep so that they are not disturbed
during excavation for foundation.
1.2.3 Excavation Procedure for Foundation
• For small buildings, excavation is carried out manually by means of pick axes, crow bars.
Spades etc. In case of large buildings and deep excavation, mechanical earth cutting
equipment can be used.
• For hard soils when the depth of excavation is less than 1.5 m, the sides of the trench do not
need any external support. If the soil is loose or the excavation is deeper, some sort of
shoring is required to support the sides from falling.
• Planking and strutting can be intermittent or continuous depending on the nature of soil and
the depth of excavation. In the case of intermittent or “open” planking and strutting the entire
sides of trenches are not covered.
• Vertical boards (known as poling boards) of size 250 x 40 mm of the required length can be
placed with gaps of about 50 cm. These shall be kept apart by horizontal wailings of strong
timber of section 100 x 100 mm at a minimum spacing of 1.2 m and strutted by a cross piece
of 100 x 100 square or 100 nun diameter.
1.2.4 Concreting of Foundation in Excavation
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• In the case of a masonry wall, the footing is generally of cement concrete mix of ratio 1:4:8 or
1:5:10 (cement: sand: coarse aggregate). The size of coarse aggregate is limited to 40 mm.
Lime concrete can also be used for this purpose.
• For important works, mixing of concrete should be done in a mechanical mixer. Concrete
should be laid (not thrown) in layers not exceeding 15 cm and well compacted.
• The concrete should lie protected by moist gunny bags after about 1 or 2 hours of laying.
Regular curing should be started after 24 hours and be continued for 10 days.
• The masonry work over the bed concrete can be started after 3 days of laying the concrete
but curing along with that of masonry shall be continued.
• For RCC column footings and raft foundations, a leveling course of lean concrete of 75 rnm
is laid in order to have an even and soil free surface for placing the reinforcement.
Information sheet-2 Measuring & leveling
• 2.1 How_to_Level_Tilted_Tombstones
you can level tilted tomb stones easily using the method described here. We will walk through
the steps to lifting and leveling a grave marker that has sunk into the ground. Over time
headstones tend to settle and begin to lean or tilt. This can happen as quickly as one or two
years or it may take a number of decades.
• Safety: - When working on monuments, gravestones or headstones, remember that they are
normally extremely heavy. Granite can weigh 168 lbs per cubic foot. That adds up really
quickly when you have large blocks that you are working with. It’s not uncommon for
tombstones to weigh thousands of pounds.
• Be careful to ensure that you and those you work with understand how to be safe when
working with such large pieces of stone. We keep hands, arms and feet always out of areas
where the stone could fall and pin or crush them.
• Tools; - Due to the fact that grave monuments are often so heavy and difficult to lift, the use
of purpose built tools is recommended. In our case we are going to be using the Tombstone
Jack™. Other tools that can be used include cranes, hoists and pry bar systems. We will
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also use a number of common tools that you likely already have: shovel, level, gravel,
various pieces of wood.
• Identify: - Identify the tombstone that you are going to level. This can be any tilted grave
marker if you are working directly for the cemetery operator or if you are doing some work for
a specific family, ensure that you correctly selected the grave monument that they are
requesting to be leveled.
Fig 2.1 Tombstone in need of leveling
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Figure 2.2 the Tombstone Jack lifting feet.
Figure 2.3 The Clamp system for the Tombstone Jack
• When deciding which to uses there are several things to consider. Look at the stone you
would be clamping to. Is it fairly smooth and without cracks? What is the estimated weight of
the monument/headstone? If the weight is less than 3000 lbs. and the surfaces where the
clamps would touch are solid then go with the Tombstone Jack lifting clamps. If not use the
Tombstone Jack lifting feet.
• Because of these factors we decided to use the lift feet. We used a shovel to remove several
inches of dirt from the sides of the gravestone so that we could place the feet under the
monument
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2.4 Young man lifts one end of headstone
2.2 Gravel to level

• Once we had the monument lifted, we placed several inches of gravel under the monument. We
used a bucket to pour it under the gravestone and then we used a piece of wood to spread it
around and make it level. This is an important safety tip, to ensure that you never place your hands,
arms or feet under a monument that has been raised above the ground.
2.2.1 Place down and measure

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• Lower the gravestone down onto the gravel and use a level to check and ensure that it is
level. If it is not, raise it back up and place more gravel to achieve your desired level. Once
the gravestone is reading as level, you can remove the Tombstone Jack.
2.2.2 Clean-up
• Put your tools and the Tombstone Jack away and stand back and admire your work. It feels
good to level tilted tombstones and have a nice level grave marker when you started with
one that was so in danger.
Figure 2.5 remove the around Tombstone
Information sheet- 3 Fixing formwork
3.1 Formwork (Shuttering) for Concrete Construction
• Formwork (shuttering) in concrete construction is used as a mold for a structure in which fresh
concrete is poured only to harden subsequently. Types of concrete formwork construction
depend on formwork material and type of structural element.
• Formworks can also be named based on the type of structural member construction such as
slab formwork for use in slab, beam formwork, column formwork for use in beams and
columns respectively etc.
• The construction of formwork takes time and involves expenditure up to 20 to 25% of the cost
of the structure or even more. Design of these temporary structures is made to economic
expenditure. The operation of removing the formwork is known as stripping. Stripped
formwork can be reused. Reusable forms are known as panel forms and non-usable are
called stationary forms.
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• Timber is the most common material used for formwork. The disadvantage with timber
formwork is that it will warp, swell and shrink. Application of water impermeable cost to the
surface of wood mitigates these defects.
3.2 A good formwork should satisfy the following requirements
• It should be strong enough to withstand all types of dead and live loads.
• It should be rigidly constructed and efficiently propped and braced both horizontally and
vertically, so as to retain its shape.
• The joints in the formwork should be tight against leakage of cement grout.
• Construction of formwork should permit removal of various parts in desired sequences

without damage to the concrete.
• The material of the formwork should be cheap, easily available and should be suitable for
reuse.
• The formwork should be set accurately to the desired line and levels should have plane
surface.
It should be as light as possible.
• The material of the formwork should not warp or get distorted when exposed to the elements.
• It should rest on firm base.
3.2.1 Economy in Formwork
• The following points are to be kept in view to effect economy in the cost of formwork:
• The plan of the building should imply minimum number of variations in the size of rooms,
floor area etc. so as to permit reuse of the formwork repeatedly.
• Design should be perfect to use slender sections only in a most economical way.
• Minimum sawing and cutting of wooden pieces should be made to enable reuse of the
material a number of times. The quantity of surface finish depends on the quality of the
formwork.
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• Formwork can be made out of timber, plywood, steel, precast concrete or fiberglass used
separately or in combination. Steel forms are used in situation where large numbers of re-
use of the same forms are necessary. For small works, timber formwork proves useful. Fiber
glass made of precast concrete and aluminum are used in cast-in-situ construction such as
slabs or members involving curved surfaces.
3.3 Types of Formwork (Shuttering) for Concrete Construction:
Timber Formwork: Timber for formwork should satisfy the following requirement:
It should be
well-seasoned
light in weight
easily workable with nails without splitting free from loose knots
Timber used for shuttering for exposed concrete work should have smooth and even surface on
all faces which come in contact with concrete.
Plywood Formwork:- Resin bonded plywood sheets are attached to timber frames to make up
panels of required sizes. The cost of plywood formwork compares favorably with that of
timber shuttering and it may even prove cheaper in certain cases in view of the following
considerations:
• It is possible to have smooth finish in which case on cost in surface finishing is there.
• By use of large size panels it is possible to effect saving in the labor cost of fixing and
dismantling.
• Number of reuses is more as compared with timber shuttering. For estimation purpose,
number of reuses can be taken as 20 to 25.
Steel Formwork: - This consists of panels fabricated out of thin steel plates stiffened along the
edges by small steel angles. The panel units can be held together through the use of
suitable clamps or bolts and nuts. The panels can be fabricated in large number in any
desired modular shape or size. Steel forms are largely used in large projects or in situation
where large number
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reuses of the shuttering is possible. This type of shuttering is considered most suitable for circular or
curved structures.
Steel forms compared with timber formwork:
• Steel forms are stronger, durable and have longer life than timber formwork and their reuses are
more in number.
• Steel forms can be installed and dismantled with greater ease and speed.
• The quality of exposed concrete surface by using steel forms is good and such surfaces need no
further treatment.
• Steel formwork does not absorb moisture from concrete.
• Teal formwork does not shrink or warp.
3.4 Construction of Concrete formwork:
This normally involves the following operations:
• Propping and centering Shuttering
• Provision of camber
• Cleaning and surface treatment
3.4.1 Order and Method of Removing Formwork:
The sequence of orders and method of removal of formwork are as follows:

• Shuttering forming the vertical faces of walls beams and column sides should be removed first
as they bear no load but only retain the concrete.
• Shuttering forming soffit of slabs should be removed next.
• Shuttering forming soffit of beams, girders or other heavily loaded shuttering should be removed
in the end.
• Rapid hardening cement, warm weather and light loading conditions allow early removal of
formwork.
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• The formwork should under no circumstances be allowed to be removed until all the concrete
reaches strength of at least twice the stresses to which the concrete may be subjected at the
time of removal of formwork.
• All formworks should be eased gradually and carefully in order to prevent the load being
suddenly transferred to concrete.
Information sheet-4 Laying out concrete footings
4.1 introduction of concrete
• C-25 standardized mix concrete or ST-2 Concrete is widely versatile and used in numerous
commercial and domestic projects. It is commonly used for footings and foundations,
including mass concrete fill, trench fill and reinforced fill, as well as general groundwork’s
4.2 Laying out concrete
• The layout of the footings and what to do with the footing excavation excess soil material
should be considered together. Some construction supervisor’s use batter boards at each
corner to give the line and the grade of the building. Others use offset hubs to determine line
and an elevation benchmark for grade. With either method, you need to consider how much
offset is required from the actual wall lines in order to accomplish the excavation. These
items should be thought through in advance of the actual layout and footing excavation in
order to proceed in the most effective manner. Foundations vary according to their use, the
soil-bearing capacity, and the type of material available. The material may be cut stone, rock,
brick, concrete, tile, or wood, depending on the weight the foundation is to support.
4.2.1 Setting battens boards.
• Batten boards are a temporary framework used to assist in locating corners when laying out
a foundation. Batten-board posts are made from 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 material; corner stakes are
made from 2 x 2s. Batten boards are made from 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 pieces.
4.2.2. Staking /pig Procedures.
• Corner stakes are driven to mark the exact corners of the project. Excavating for a foundation
will disturb the stakes, so batter boards are set up outside the boundary established by the
stakes to preserve definite and accurate building lines. Heavy cord or fine wire is stretched
from one batter board to another to mark these lines.
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4.2.3 Location of Batten Boards.
• Right-angle batten boards are erected 3 or 4 feet outside of each corner stake. Straight
batten boards are erected 3 or 4 feet outside of the line stakes.
4.2.4 Construction of Batten Boards.
• Right-angle batten boards should be fastened to the posts after the posts are sunk. Since
the boards should be at the exact height of the top of the foundation, it may be desirable to
adjust the height by nailing the boards to the stakes after the stakes have been sunk. Right-
angle batter boards may be nailed close to perpendicular by using a framing square and
should be leveled by means of a carpenter's level before they are secured. Then, angle saw
cuts may be made or nails driven into the tops of the boards to hold the lines in place.
Separate cuts or nails may be used for the building line, the foundation line, the footing line,
and excavation lines. These grooves permit the removal and replacement of the lines in the
correct position.
4.3 concrete footing fundamentals
• Learn the role footings play in keeping foundations from settling and how to size them
properly for soil conditions
• Footings are an important part of foundation construction. They are typically made of
concrete with rebar reinforcement that has been poured into an excavated trench. The
purpose of footings is to support the foundation and prevent settling. Footings are especially
important in areas with troublesome soils.
• The construction of footings is best left to the pros that can assess the soil conditions and
decide on the proper depth and width for the footings as well as the proper placement. The
dimensions of footings also depend on the size and type of structure that will be built.
Placement of footings is crucial to provide the proper support for the foundation and
ultimately the structure.
• Concrete footings may also be needed for projects such as a deck, pergola, retaining wall or
other types of construction.
• If you know your soil bearing capacity, following these practical guidelines will ensure strong
footings.
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Figure 4.1 level foundation concrete
L G#48 LO #3 Set up side stones into place
Instruction sheet
• Positioning/packing side stones
• Measuring diagonal and parallel lines
• Leveling
• Position/pack side stones
• Measure diagonal and parallel lines
• Level
Learning Instructions:
Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.
• Follow the instructions described below 3 to 4.
• Read the information written in the information “Sheet 1, Sheet 2, Sheet 3, sheet 4
and Sheet 5”.
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• Accomplish the “Self-check 1, Self-check t 2, Self-check 2 and Self-check 3” in
page -5, 7, and 9 respectively.
• if you earned a satisfactory evaluation the self check proceed to next
Informationsheel Positioning/packing side stones
1.1 Packing the side stones
• Packing the stones requires even more patience. Natural headstone will have different
thickness stones so you are going to have to work with your base by taking away sand for
the thicker ones, and adding sand for the thinner ones.
• Part of packing the stones also means a jointing material to stabilize them. We highly
recommend visiting the next section on edging and jointing as the two are interconnected.
The next section covers the process of filling in the joints with sand/crushed rock, or
polymeric sand.
• Before you do, make sure the stone is settled into the sand with very little wobble or movement
first, or your risk of cracking the stone increases.
• You can settle the stone by placing your hands on each side of it and twisting the stone into
the sand or by moving it back and forth and from side to side.
• This can be difficult with the stones being so close together if you pre-placed them all. You
may have to take out adjoining stones temporarily to settle some of the stones (remember
where they came from though).
• Another method of setting the stones is to carefully pick up the stone by the edges, without
disturbing the sand underneath.
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Fig 1.1 prepare packing side stone
1.2 How to Place a Headstone

• In years past, a headstone was purchased only after a loved one died. Today, it is not
uncommon to choose, purchase and place a headstone on a grave in advance. Each
cemetery has its own regulations governing the type and size of headstones it allows.
Cemeteries also decide who is allowed to set the stones in place -- the monument company,
plot owner, or cemetery employees -- and whether or not a concrete footer is required under
the headstone or monument. Footers help to stabilize a headstone and prevent it from
sinking or listing to one side.
• Ask the cemetery to mark the place for the headstone. Dig a rectangular hole about 12 to 18
inches deep and at least a foot longer and wider than the headstone, or headstone base, if
you have one. Place a frame made of 2 x 4s around the inside of the hole near the top so
that the visible edges of the footer will be straight and neat. Mix the concrete according to the
directions on the bag and pour it into the hole. Smooth the top and make sure that it is level.
Fig 1.2 head stone
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Information sheet-2 Measuring diagonal and parallel lines
2.1 How to Calculate a Diagonal of a Square
• The diagonal of a square is the line stretching from one corner of the square to the opposite
corner. To find the diagonal of a square, you can use the formula d = &i/2 where equals one side
length of the square. Sometimes, however, you might be asked to find the length of the diagonal
given another value, such as the perimeter or area of the square. In these instances it is
necessary to use different formulas first, so that you can determine the side length before using
the diagonal formula.
1. Find the length of one side of the square. This will probably be given to you. If you are working
with a square in the real world, use a ruler or piece of measuring tape to find the length. Since all
four sides of the square are the same length, you can use any side of the square. If you do not
know the length of one side of the square, you cannot use this method.
For example, you might want to find the length of the diagonal of a square that has sides 5
centimeters long.
2 Set up the formula. ^ Sy/2. |n the formula ^ equals the length of the diagonal
and equals one side of the square. 1
(a2 4- b2 — c2) ,
3 This formula is derived from
the Pythagorean Theorem (. A
diagonal
divides a square into two
congruent right triangles, thus,
you can use the side lengths of
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square
Sendafa Bake TVET College TVET program title-Structural Construction levelto
III find the length of
November 2023
the diagonal (which would be the
2.2 What is parallel line .?
• Parallel lines are two lines that are always the same distance apart and never touch. in order for
two lines to be parallel, they must be drawn in the same plane, a perfectly flat surface like a wall or
sheet of paper.
Information sheet-3 Leveling
3.1 introduction of Leveling: -
• Is the procedure used to determine differences in elevation between points that are remote from
each other
• Elevation is a vertical distance above or below a reference datum.
3 .1 .1 monument leveling and resetting
• The old foundation was removed and the hole squared up and tamped. Gravel was added to the
hole to help with drainage. A new granite foundation was installed and leveled. The headstone was
placed back on the new foundation.
3.1.2 Head Stone Memorial | Grave Stone Memorial
• Cemetery markers like these are sometimes called “grass-level” markers. They are installed flat
with the ground and meet many cemetery requirements for flat grave markers. These are granite or
marble memorials, which include matching veteran style markers. If your cemetery only accepts
bronze, then click here for our Bronze Memorial guide.
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Each marker is uniquely made in our shop, with many designs including reversible flower
vases for a safe way to store your vase when not in use.
Fig 3.1 leveling setting monument
3.2 Headstone / Monument Services

1. Installation: - As long as permissible by your cemetery, we would be pleased to install your
memorial monument for you. While many memorial companies install concrete foundations, we
install a solid granite foundation for greater stability and long-term support. Because the foundation
must be dug into the ground, installation of the headstone can only take place when the ground is
dry and frost free. In the Peace Country, installations will typically be done between May and
October.
2. Monument Restoration:- The weather in the Peace Country isn’t always kind. Many years of the
outdoor elements can sometimes cause a certain degree of “weathering” to a memorial. We see
this more frequently affect the lettering on sandblasted memorials. Please contact us to discuss
your concern, and we will do our best to assist you in restoring the granite as best possible.
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Fig3.2Monumen
t Installation
3. Monument Repair: - Infrequently, monument stones may be in need of repair due to natural
disasters or vandalism. If you find that your headstone requires repair, we can help you out. Our
memorializes will treat your stone with the utmost attention and care.
4. Monument Leveling:- Due to settling of the ground or shifting, a monument may end up shifting
or tilting as a result. We mitigate the chance of this happening by using a granite foundation which
is much more durable than a concrete foundation. However, we have no control over the stability of
the ground at the cemetery. If shifting occurs, and you have an issue with a headstone that is
sinking or is otherwise unleveled, our installers can visit the site and correct the problem.
5. Added Inscriptions: - Sometimes a family will purchase memorials with space reserved to
include names of other family members at a later date. We can remove the stone and add
sandblasting or laser etching to an existing monument.
6. Pre-needs:- Many individuals like to plan for the future. For some people, this means planning
and paying their own memorial. We call this a “pre-need”. A pre-need has many benefits:
7. Peace of Mind:- In choosing your own memorial, you are ensuring that your loved ones don’t
have to worry about making difficult decisions while they are grieving.
8. Design: - You can choose to design your own memorial so it is personal to you and reflects
your own individuality and style. Your family won’t have to guess what you would have wanted as
far as model, size, color and inscription.
9. Cost :- Planning and paying for your memorial now means that your family won’t have to worry
about it at a time when there may be other financial burdens. It also means that although it may not
be needed for many years, your memorial is guaranteed at today’s prices and won’t be affected by
inflation and cost increases.
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L #49 LO #4 Preparing dowel joints
Instruction sheet
• Boring holes for dowels
• Placing/inserting dowels
• Insert and locate Dowels in near applicable holes

• Bore holes for dowels
• Place/insert dowels
• Insert and locate Dowels in near applicable holes.
• Read the information written in the information “Sheet 1, Sheet 2, Sheet 3, sheet 4
and Sheet 5”.

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if you earned a satisfactory evaluation the self check proceed to next
Information sheet-1 holes Boring for dowels
1.1 introductions to construction joint
• When laying cement or concrete, a builder sometimes cannot lay the entire slab all at once.
Weather, time constraints, or lack of materials might stop the project midway. When this happens,
the builder needs to leave an even stopping place, called a construction joint. This joint is basically
a straight line in the concrete. If done correctly, a construction joint can double as a contraction joint,
a joint placed in the concrete to prevent cracking of the slab.
• The edge of a construction joint is created using a bulkhead. Bulkheads can be made of various
materials, from plastic to steel to preformed concrete. During the pouring and leveling process,
bulkheads can double as screed rails. Concrete is poured between screed rails, the tops of which
are then used as a guide when leveling the concrete. Normally, bulkheads and screed rails are
removed after the slab is complete.
• Contraction joints can be formed by cutting a groove in the slab or by embedding plastic strips
into the slab. The purpose of the joint is to weaken the slab along the approved line so that the slab
cracks there instead of somewhere else. In order to be effective, the contraction joint must be at
least one quarter as deep as the slab is thick.
1.1.1 Use of Construction Joints
• Construction joints are used between separate concrete placements, typically along placement
lane edges.
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acement
2nd
placement Butt joints are
recommended for
most parking lots
where load transfer
needs are minimal.
formed or slipped face
Fig 1.1 construction joint
1.2 choosing the right concrete dowel drill
• Technology leads to better, faster, easier-to-maintain equipment, increases uptime, and makes
the jobsite more efficient. In the concrete paving industry, we have seen this trend in significant
changes to dowel drilling equipment. Once, only one option existed: handheld models. When the
first machine, a hydraulic drill, was launched more than 30 years ago, it was the first real innovation
to this equipment. Higher production was possible, and less backbreaking manual labor was
required.
1.2.1 How many holes
• Choosing between a single- or multigang model is the next consideration. Because every project
has different requirements for the number of holes needed, drills are offered with different gang
options. Maximum efficiency is key in gang selection. Although it may seem like a five-gang drill is
going to be faster and more productive than a single-gang drill, it actually may be overkill and
inefficient. It’s simply not cost-effective to purchase a more expensive multigang unit when a single-
gang drill is capable of doing the job to spec and production requirements. And air requirements
increase with each gang since each operates independently and requires a certain CFM from the
air compressor. A five-gang drill may be inoperable with a small air compressor.
1 2.2 Dowel Bar Replacement
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• An alternative to full-depth repairs and drilling for new dowels is a process called dowel bar
replacement (DBR). Because concrete pavements often fail at the joints, DBR has been
used successfully to restore the stability of joints. The process is simple: cut a slot across the
deteriorated joint, place an epoxy-coated steel dowel bar, fill the slot with a non-shrink
concrete grout, and diamond grind the pavement surface to restore smoothness.
Information sheet-2 Placing/inserting dowels
2.1 What are dowels in construction?
• In civil construction, “dowels” mostly means a round steel bar which is used to provide a
mechanical connection between slabs without restricting horizontal joint movement. They
increase load transfer efficiency by allowing the leave slab to assume some of the load
before the load is actually over it.
• A dowel is a bar which connects two separately cast sections of RCC/PCC structural
elements, to ensure proper load transfer between the said structural elements.
• A bar extending from one structural element into another is said to be doweled into the
adjoining structural element.
For example, dowel bars are used to -
• Adjoining slabs of concrete pavements. You can read more about it here 111
• Connect a footing to its corresponding column
This is done to develop the excess force, when the permissible bearing stress on concrete in
column or in footing is exceeded.
The dowel bars are embedded in the footing and are projected above into the column.
• The dowel bar is extended into the column to a length equal to the development length of the
column bar (longitudinal) dowel bar is extended into the column to a length equal to the
development length of the dowel bar Connect a slab to the adjoining grade beams
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2.2 placement problems with dowel
Dowel bars are typically placed at the mid-depth of the slab and should be parallel to the pavement
surface and parallel to the direction of travel. The center of the dowel bar should be below the joint.
If dowel placement deviates from the desired position, it is said to be misaligned.
• horizontal translation
• longitudinal translation
• vertical translation
• horizontal skew; and
• Vertical tilt.
Misalignment may result from misplacement (initially placing the dowels in an incorrect position),
displacement (movement during the paving operation), or both. Dowel bars are typically placed in
the joints using either basket assemblies or an automated dowel bar.
2.3 Reduce Random Cracking with Plate Dowels
Use plate dowels at construction joints to reduce the risk of random cracking
2.1 plate dowels construction
• Construction joints are formed or placed into slabs to define stopping places or the extent of an
individual concrete placement. There are different types of construction joints: butt-type with
and without a keyway, doweled, and tied as shown in Figure 1. Dowels can be smooth round
or square steel bars or plates.
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• Construction joints are different than contraction joints (also called control joints) but may be
designed and constructed to open freely like contraction joints to help control unsightly,
random slab cracking. If joints can open freely, tensile stresses caused by restrained dry and
thermal concrete shrinkage are relieved. Relieving shrinkage stresses reduces the risk of
random cracking. Therefore, construction joints that perform like contraction joints are
desirable.
• Only butt- and doweled-type construction joints can open freely or function like contraction
joints. Tied construction joints cannot function like contraction joints. Also, if the slab
reinforcement is continuous through a construction joint, the joint may function more like a
tied joint than a contraction joint. Continuous reinforcement through joints can restrict joints
from opening freely.
2.3 Concrete pavement
• Since the first strip of concrete pavement was completed in 1893, concrete has been used
extensively for paving highways and airports as well as business and residential streets.
There are four types of concrete pavement:
• Plain pavements with dowels that use dowels to provide load transfer and prevent faulting,
• Plain pavements without dowels, in which aggregate interlock transfers loads across joints
and prevents faulting,
• Conventionally reinforced pavements that contain steel reinforcement and use dowels in
contraction joints, and
• Continuously reinforced pavements that have no contraction joints and are reinforced with
continuous longitudinal steel.
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Fig 1.2 Concrete pavement
• To prepare for paving, the sub grade the native soil on which the pavement is built must be graded
and compacted. Preparation of the sub grade is often followed by the placing of a sub base a layer
of material that lies immediately below the concrete. The essential function of the sub base is to
prevent the displacement of soil from underneath the pavement. Sub bases may be constructed of
granular materials, cement-treated materials, lean concrete, or open-graded, highly-permeable
materials, stabilized or unsterilized. Once the sub base has hardened sufficiently to resist marring or
distortion by construction traffic, dowels, tie bars, or reinforcing steel are placed and properly
aligned in preparation for paving.
Fig 2.3 design of concrete pavement
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Operation Sheet 1 The Techniques for Preparing dowel joints
The techniques for Preparing dowel joints .Key information about providers is;
Stepsl- wears personal protective safety equipment before work (PPE)
Step 2 - read instructions and apply safety rule.
Step 3- select appropriate hand tools, equipment’s & raw material

Step 4- prepare dowel joints on the surface of monument works 1m length *1m width and wall
height 2m
Step 5- use properly the right tools on the right job.
Step 6- clear work area and maintain hand tools and equipment’s.
Step 7 - Re use, dispose and recycle raw material
L #50 LO #5 Stand up front and back stones
Instruction sheet
• Mixing and inserting mortar into side stone holes.
• Positioning back stone
• Raising back stone
• Leveling back stone

• Mix and insert mortar into side stone holes.
• Position back stone
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• Raise back stone
• Level back stone Learning Instructions:
• Read the specific objectives of this Learning Guide.

• Read the information written in the information “Sheet 1, Sheet 2, Sheet 3,sheet 4
and Sheet 5”.

if you earned a satisfactory evaluation the self check proceed to next
Information sheet-1 Mixing and inserting mortar into side stone holes
1.1 Mixing and inserting mortar
• For your bricklaying project, learning to mix up the right amount of good mortar will save you
time and money. You don't want to let your mortar dry out or mix at the wrong consistency. By
learning the right proportions of ingredients and the proper steps for mixing and working your
mortar, you'll be mixing up good batches of mortar in no time.
• Get that block project started.
1.2 procedure of mixing mortar
• . Ensure three parts sand to one part masonry cement. For a basic mortar mix, you'll want to
mix essentially three parts of sand for every one part of cement you use. If you're mixing up a
whole bag of cement, that'll mean you'll use three times that amount of sand, which will
result in a big batch of mud. Only mix up as much as you'll need.
• The measurement doesn't need to be precise as a baking recipe. At most work sites, when
mixing large amounts, the amount of sand is usually given in "shovels full” per bag of mortar
mix, which usually works out to somewhere between 15 and 18, depending on how large the
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shovel scoops are. It's important to get close, but it's more of an eyeball measurement. You
don't need to get out the teaspoons.
• Use the right amount of water. A bag of mortar should be mixed with about three gallons
of clean water to achieve the right consistency. The amount of water used can vary
drastically depending upon the weather, how wet the sand is, and the variety of mix you're
using, so read the instructions carefully before adding water.
• Ambient conditions (temperature and humidity) will affect the mix and need to be
considered A drier mix will yield a stronger bond. A wetter mix might be easier to work. That's
where experience comes in.
• Use the correct sand and mortar. Using a fine-grade, sharp masonry sand for the job is
more appropriate than other varieties, and using fresh unopened bags of masonry cement
will be more effective than using older bags. Masonry cement mixes, like Quorate, Secrete,
and other brands are all appropriate for the job.
• Some brands come pre-mixed especially for mortar, which means you don't need to add
sand. These are somewhat more expensive than regular Portland cement, but are much
better for smaller projects. Read the label and find out what you're getting. If you don't need
to add sand, the mixing process is still the same.
• Portland cement is not a brand of cement. It is the name of the most common type of
ingredient used to mix mortars, concrete and other bonding mixes.
• Keep the sand and dry cement covered to keep them as dry as possible. It's easy to ruin
your materials if they get too humid and damp. Try to mix up only as much as you'll need, but
also to use up what dry mix you have so that you can take advantage of your materials.
• Check your cement bags for lumps. If there are lumps or hard chunks on the bag, it has
been exposed to moisture and won't bond well, it needs to be discarded.
Different brands may recommend slightly different mixes. Read the label on the brand of mix you
buy and follow the instructions. In general, however, a mix of 3-to-1 is usually appropriate and
effective.
•_Consider using lime as an additive. In some areas where the wall you're building will be
exposed to especially high winds or the elements, lime is added to increase the bonding and
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strengthen the stonework you're building. If you do elect to add lime to your mix, you'll also
need to add more sand to balance out the ratio somewhat, resulting in a stronger, more
bonded mortar.
• An appropriate ratio if you want to use lime would be six parts of sand to two parts of lime
to one part of cement
• Keep in mind that adding lime to your mixture will make the mortar set more quickly. This
means that you need to work more quickly or mix a smaller batch.
• Match the recipe to the weather. In very wet, cold, or humid weather, the mortar will
behave differently than if it's really hot and dry weather. You may find it more effective to use
slightly less sand and slightly more water if that's the case. Experiment some to get the right
consistency and mix.
• In general, it's easiest to use mortar in moderate, dry weather than, cold and humid
weather. While that's not always possible, you can learn to recognize the right consistency
and add water appropriately.
1.3 How to Use a Grout Bag for Mortar Joints
• In traditional stone and brick installations, joints are mortared as the structure is built.
Brick and stone veneer are installed more like tile, which requires filling the joints with mortar
after the materials are set. Filling mortar joints in brick or stone is a different process than
grouting tile. Because the surface is usually rough or uneven, grout floats won’t work. Grout
bags let you fill mortar joints individually, and with much more control over the mess that is
usually associated with mortar. Mortar contains cement, which can harden fast. Begin
working as soon as the mortar is mixed.
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Figure 1.1 insert mortars in joint
Information sheet-2 Positioning back stone
2.1 Positioning Larger Rockery stones
• Once you’ve got your stone and know exactly where the rockery is going to go, you can
commence work. You need to familiarise yourself with the shapes of the stones you have
purchased. One fatal error is to go along choosing all the easy shapes to lay, to find you are
left with only awkward shapes which are very hard to position to get them to look right with
the rest of the perfectly laid rockery. You need to look at the shapes available to you and try
to use the awkward shapes as you go along.
• Always start from one point. If you start from both ends of the rockery, it is very hard to get
the right sized stones to fit in the middle, whereas your finish point can have a slightly larger
or smaller gap and no one will ever notice.
• Preparation is the key part of any landscaping project and building a rockery is no exception.
To me Rockeries look best when they are laid in an organised manner, so it is important you
get the levels right. Start by working out where you want the base of the rockery to lie. It’s a
good idea to have the base of the rockery approximately six inches or more below the level
of the lawn, patio or area in front of the rockery.
• This gives a much more professional and natural look rather than having the lower stones
bedded above the lawn or patio.
• So start by digging a trench for the stones about 6 inches deep and as wide as the stones you
are going to be using. Don’t discard any of the materials you have dug out as you will
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need this material to back fill behind the rocks and to help position the stones. Once the
trench is dug have a look at how tall you want the first level of the rockery to be.
• Find a suitable sized stone to fill this space; you need the majority of the weight to sit at
the back of the stone so that it leans back into the rockery rather than being unstable and
falling forwards. Its stability can be increased by putting an inline in the trench so that the
stone would fall backwards into the bank if it had a choice. The trench needs to be free from
large stones and with a relatively level surface, or a rough surface that is the mirror image of
the side of the stone that will be placed upon it. Clay is ideal for bedding as you can loosen it
and once the stone is placed it will compact to suit the shape of the stone. If using a mini
digger the stone can be pushed into place with the blade and then it can be adjusted to the
right angle by using the bucket or again running into it with the blade.
• Once the stone is in place back fill behind the stone with any excess materials from the
trench. Avoid back filling with any material that could decompose like tree roots, as in later
years this could result in the stones moving.
Figure 2.1 Weathered Sandstone rockeries
• Decide which is to be your next stone, then measure the side you want to face outwards. If it is
shorter than the first, simply fill in your trench to get the top to the same height or vice versa
if the stone is larger than dig your trench a bit deeper to compensate. I Feel the rockeries
always look better the tighter you get the stones, although having said this once they have
been planted if you do have a few larger gaps, no one will notice, the soil and plants are a bit
like tile adhesive, it hides all the mistakes! And I can promise you the little floors in stone
placing will only be noticed by you, as you’re the person who knew it was a little out of line
when placed it. So now you can follow this procedure for the remaining first shelf of the
rockery, but remember to think logically about which stones you are using
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• If one looks like it’s going to be much better for the next step up on your rockery then make
the effort to save it for such a position.
• Once your initial stones are in place you can start on the next shelf. Hopefully you will have
used all the largest looking stones in the bottom, making it easier for you to position these
ones, as now there not at ground level you have less room for manoeuvrings them.
2.2 How to Cope With Kidney Stones
• Dealing with kidney stones can be painful and scary. Fortunately, there are things you can do
to help yourself feel better. If you have kidney stones, the first and best thing to do is get
evaluated by your healthcare provider. Use pain relievers and home treatments to manage
your pain as you wait for the stones to pass. You can also help your body pass the stones by
following your doctor’s treatment instructions and staying hydrated. Finally, you can reduce
your chances of developing more stones by making healthy lifestyle choices.
Information sheet-3 Raising back stone
3.1 introductions of rising stone

• Raising Stones Events is dedicated to providing you with the high quality services that you
expect from a larger firm, but with the personal touch and flexibility of a smaller company.
And great things can come about through the right combination of many small things.
3.1.1 Monument types
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Upright Monuments
Upright monuments consist of the die (or tablet) and the base. The die
is the top part of the monument that sits on the base. The tops are
usually serpentine, oval or straight, however other styles and custom
shapes are also available. The base is the lower part of the monument
and generally has a polished top and rock finished sides.
Benches
Benches are an ideal choice in areas where people pass or gather.
They are an excellent option in areas such as parks and other public
places where typical monuments may not be suitable.
Slant
Similar to an upright monument but generally shorter and with the
tablet cut with a slanted face Basic Monument Styles. They may have
one or two names and are generally 1 foot 2 inches high (or higher in
increments of 2") and 10" or 12" wide.
Mausoleums
Mausoleums are large monuments that actually enshroud the body.
They can be quite elaborate and often shelter a whole family.
Bevel or Hickey Markers

Bevel markers have a beveled or slanted face where the back of the
stone is a few inches higher than the front. They are generally 8' high
and have an 1K’ drop back to the front.
Grass or Flush Markers

A grass or flush marker is a stone
that sits flush with the ground.
These markers are generally 24” x
12", but may be larger or smaller.
This is the most common style for
veteran's markers. Flush markers
are also used to mark individual
graves when there is a large
upright stone on a family plot.
Bronze Markers
An individually cast bronze plate
that is usually mounted upon a
flush 24" x 12" stone. Bronze
markers may also be mounted to
3.2 Basic elements of a monument
other types of monuments and
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Sendafa Bake TVETThese
College markers
TVET programare
title-Structural Construction Work level III
extremely November 2023
durable and the letters and
symbols are raised up from the
Figure 3.1 parts of Monument types
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Barre Gray is a true granite that is This granite has a light to dark brown Blue Pearl is coarse grained
and has a Swirls of variegated light and dark
mined in Barre, Vermont. Known as grain pattern over a blackish brown dark blue grayish background
- the granite in blue/gray with some red
‘Barre Gray’ it is the most popular background. You'll find it with and glimmering light blue to dark
green (garnet) accents. The colors and
stone for monuments and is world- without white specks. This granite is a crystals reflect light. This
stone 3.3
Figure hasStone
a shades varyguides
material so it's best to view your
renown for being both durable and good alternative to Dakota or very large grain. actual stone,
affordable. sheet-4
Information Canadian Mahogany.
Leveling ....................... «.
back stone
4.1 introduction Leveling back stone
• We are able to raise and/or level your cemetery memorial back into its correct position,
making sure not to damage the memorial or the surrounding landscaping. To comply with
cemetery and churchyard regulations, it may be necessary to supply a new foundation and
ground anchor.
• Raising and leveling is just one way in which we help restore memorials. We go through
everything necessary to bring your book, heart or children's memorial back to life and ensure
it looks it best for as long as possible. For helpful, friendly advice from our stonemasons and
for a chance to go through your requirements, give us a call today. We will ensure the right
headstone is chosen for your memorial and design it around your requirements.
• To ensure you’re loved ones gravestones and memorials aren’t damaged due to an uneven
landscape, we provide a leveling service to ensure that there is no possibility of future
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damages. Our memorial insurance will ensure that if anything does happen to the
gravestones or headstones; we will be able to aid in the recovery and restoration of that
memorial.
• The ground can cause your memorial to slowly tip over or lower itself; the best way to
combat this is through raising and leveling which is why our professionals work hard to put
everything in its correct place without causing damage to your memorial.
3.2 Gravestone installation - monolith or dowel
• Health and safety has become a phrase which is normally accompanied by a long sigh. It
presents stumbling blocks and often inhibits creativity. In a cemetery however it is a
necessary precaution which protects against bad installation (fixing) methods and ultimately
helps to prevent stones from falling over and causing injury.
• A gravestone will inevitably move over the years as the ground shifts. It will lean and twist
and sometimes fall over completely in time. Sometimes if a gravestone is installed too early
and the grave is still sinking, it will lean forwards at a worrying angle. For this reason
regulations have been drawn up by NAMM (National Association of Memorial Masons) which
fixers of gravestones must adhere to.
• A dowel fixing is where the gravestone is fixed with stainless steel dowels to a base of the
same material as the headstone. The base will be fixed to a concrete base. There will be a
'ground anchor' (a long metal rod usually about an inch in diameter) connecting the
gravestone to the ground between 12” and 24” deep.
• This method was partly introduced to replace the monolith method as fixers were putting
less and less of the gravestone below ground (stone is expensive), and there was no way of
policing this. At least a third of the gravestone should be placed beneath the ground
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Figure 3.1 monolith or dowel monument 3.2.1 Monolith fixings
• Good points:- Gravestones look so much better coming straight out of the ground; nearly all
my clients prefer this system. It is a traditional method and is sympathetic to British
churchyards.
The gravestone will be easy to maintain. If the stone leans in time, it is easy to upright it. They
are cheaper to install. The gravestones are far more stable especially on a slope, provided
they have been correctly fixed. One is not restricted to a certain height.
• Bad points:- There is a danger of the 'cowboy fixer' failing to put enough of the stone
underground.
Some cemeteries in the UK will not allow this method because of the above reason. Sometimes
the cemetery will have already set a concrete beam for the dowel headstones to sit on.
Fix a gravestone monolith procedure:-
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• Measure the distance between existing gravestones and gauge the middle of the plot.
Figure 3.2 measuring existing grave stones
• Place a short scaffold plank on the ground to mark the side of the hole and to prevent the
ground from collapsing
Figure 3.3 excavate grave stones
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• Start digging a rectangular hole large enough to take the concrete shoe. It is worth making
the hole at least 2” wider all round, so one has space to move the shoe into position. The
spoil will be put on a plastic sheet.
• If the gravestone is to be say 3ft above ground level, I would bury a further 15” underground.
The base of the concrete shoe is 4” so the hole must be 19” deep
• The concrete shoe will be lowered into position and leveled perfectly. If the ground is stony or
clay, leveling will be tricky and it'll be difficult to stop the shoe rocking. At this point kiln dry
L #51 LO #6 Grout base and joints
Instruction sheet
• Preparing grout
• Joining kern stones and base
• Cleaning herbed joints

• Prepare grout
• Join kern stones and base
• Clean herbed joints
3 Read the information written in the information “Sheet 1, Sheet 2, Sheet 3, sheet 4
and Sheet 5”.
4 Accomplish the “Self-check 1, Self-check t 2, Self-check 2 and Self-check 3” in page -
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5, 7, and 9 respectively.
5 if you earned a satisfactory evaluation the self check proceed to next
Information sheet-1 Preparing grout 1, 1 what is grout

• Grout is a dense fluid which is used to fill gaps or used as reinforcement in existing structures.™
Grout is generally a mixture of water, cement, and sand and is employed in pressure grouting,
embedding rebar in masonry walls, connecting sections of precast concrete, filling voids, and
sealing joints such as those between tiles. Common uses for grout in the household include filling in
tiles of shower floors and kitchen tiles. It is often color tinted when it has to be kept visible and
sometimes includes fine gravel when being used to fill large spaces (such as the cores of concrete
blocks). Unlike other structural pastes such as plaster or joint compound, correctly mixed and
applied grout forms a waterproof seal.
• Although both grout and its close relative mortar are applied as a thick emulsion and harden over
time, grout is distinguished by its low viscosity and lack of lime (added to mortar for pliability); grout
is thin so it flows readily into gaps, while mortar is thick enough to support not only its own weight,
but also that of masonry placed above it.
Tools associated with grout work include:
• Grout saw or grout scraper, a manual tool for removal of old and discolored grout. The blade is
usually composed of tungsten carbide.
• Grout float, a trowel-like tool for smoothing the surface of a grout line, typically made of rubber or
soft plastic
• Grout sealer, a water-based or solvent-based sealant applied over dried grout that resists water,
oil, and acid-based contaminants
• Grout cleaner, an acidic or basic solution that is applied on grout lines and removes the
surrounding dirt and debris
• Die grinder, for faster removal of old grout than a standard grout saw
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Pointing trowel, used for applying grout in flagstone and other stone works
1.2 grout joints
• The space between the tiles is called a “grout joint” and the main reason grout joints exist is
to accommodate for slight sizing differences from tile to tile that are created during the
manufacturing process. The grout joint enables the installer to adjust the tile to compensate for
these sizing differences and allow for a straight grout line. Less variation in the tile size allows
for a smaller grout joint. Due to the technology incorporated in the manufacturing of tile today,
there is very little variation in size and therefore grout joint widths are generally much smaller
than they have been in the past. Typically, we recommend grout joints being no less than a 1/8
of an inch however some precision cut tiles and stone can withstand a smaller grout joint.
• Grout joints also exist is to accommodate tiles that expand and contract during cooling and
heating cycles. The grout will actually compress to allow for this movement. Note that the
smaller the grout joint and the larger the tile the less grout there is that can compress.
• The filler in a grout joint is called “grout”. Grout comes in many different colors and can be as
important in the design as the tile itself. Apart from the many colors, grout can be found with
metallic as well as “glow in the dark” enhancements. But typically, a color that either matches or
compliments the color of the tile is chosen.
• The most economical grout on the market are cement based grouts. This type of grout has
been used for many years. There are two types of cement based grout and they are sanded
and non-sanded. Sanded grout is for any joint size over 1/8”. Non-sanded grout is for joints that
are less than 1/8”.
• Although cement based grouts are economical, easy to install and generally do the job they
were designed to, they come with some inherent issues that you’ll need to be aware of like
staining from contaminants and cracking and discoloration due to poor installation techniques.
The newer grouts:-
• Are more stain resistant.
• Have superior color retention through-out the installation.

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Are easier to install and clean up.
• Are more dense and durable.
o Grout Joint Size
• Reduce the likelihood that tiles will chip if/when the subfloor moves.
• Minimize the appearance of inconsistencies in tile.
• Minimize the likelihood that the tile pattern will be thrown off upon installationTop of Form
1.3 1 when do you use caulk instead of grout?

• Technically, anywhere there is a change in substrate or backing surface such as the joint
between walks and floor and wall joint, caulk should be used in place of grout since these
surfaces move independently of each other. Often, installers use grout in place of caulk for
these reasons:-
• The caulk may not exactly match the grout color Even when the caulk exactly matches the
grout color when installed, it may not match six months later (caulk will "age" differently from
the grout).
• Caulk will need to be maintained more often than grout.
• Mold may grow more easily on caulk (except caulk treated with mildewcide) than on grout.
• Acrylic caulks break down in horizontal wet applications. Silicone, urethane, or multi-polymer
caulks are better choices but can be harder to apply.
• However, when grout is used in place of caulk, the grout can cause structural and aesthetic
problems.
The grout will crack allowing moisture to penetrate.
• Where the grout is sufficiently strong, movement in the walls, floor, or countertop can
damage the tile.
• Grout cannot hide corner cuts as well as caulk.
1.3.2 What is the difference between epoxy grout and mortar and conventional grout and mortar?
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• We are often asked about epoxy grout and mortar versus conventional grout and mortar.
• Epoxy grout (meeting ANSI A118.3) is quite different from cementations grout and epoxy
emulsion grout. Made from epoxy resins and a filler powder, the grout is extremely hard,
durable, and nearly stain proof.
• Epoxy thinnest offer greater bond strength and chemical resistance than polymer modified
cementations thinnest. This performance comes at a price as epoxy thin set is much more
expensive than regular thinnest. Typically, they are only used to bond to difficult substrates
or where extraordinary chemical resistance is needed.
1.3.3 Why is my grout and tile cracking?
• There are many things that can cause excessive deflection in your subfloor (and consequent
cracking in the tile) or you may have a perfectly sound subfloor but not have prepared the
floor properly for tile.
1.3.4 What causes cracked or loose grout?
• There are several things that can cause cracked grout and we would be guessing as to the
cause. It could be that a field inspection is needed to determine why your grout is cracking.
Typically, the most common causes are as follows:-
• Excessive deflection in the substrate. This movement can cause the grout to crack, and if
sufficiently severe, can cause tile to crack.
• Grout that is insufficiently packed into the joint. This most often occurs with wall tile. If
insufficient force is used while grouting wall tile, it is easy to "bridge" the joint where the grout
does not penetrate to the back of the joint. This is especially true if sanded grout is used in
joints narrower than 1/8". The sand grains can easily bridge a narrow joint - in this case the
grout may be only on the surface and have little strength.
• Grout made with an excessive amount of water or polymer additive. The liquid that goes into
the grout ultimately must evaporate (except for that consumed by cement hydration). This
evaporation can cause pin holing in the grout and a weak grout structure.
• Grout packed after cement hydration started. All cement based materials have a pot life. Iif
water is added to the mix after the grout begins curing in the bucket, the grout will be
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sufficiently plastic to pack but will not cure into a hard homogeneous block - rather it will be
crumbly and weak.
• Does your installer have any idea as to the cause? The least likely cause would be
defective grout. Some other possible things to look for:
Spacing of joists Type and size of floor joists Span of floor joists
• Direction of the plywood sheets and placement of gaps
• Were there gaps between the sheets of plywood?
• Type of adhesive and coverage of that adhesive
1.3.5 What is the standard for determining the size of a grout joint?
• We are often asked what is standard for determining the size of a grout joint - can it be
bigger or smaller - does it need to be a specific size, etc..
1.3.6 What is the standard for variations in grout joints?
• When evaluating grout joints, it is important to consider that the grout is used to adjust for
differences in the following:
• Variations in the size of the tile
• Changes in the plane of the substrate
• Changes in the thickness of the tile (often this applies to hand-molded tile)
• Variations in the rustic profile of the tile
• Bottom of Form
Information sheet-2 Joining kern stones and base
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2.1 Stones for Peace, Love & Unity by Moorea Kern
• Take a moment to close your eyes and think of your favorite childhood holiday memory.
Breathe in the smells, visualize the company, and hold the sweet excitement in your mind’s
eye. Let the warmth of the hearth in your memories warm your heart in this moment.
Fig 2.1 kern stone
• When we’re kids, we relish the promise of presents, but as we grow older we begin to recognize
the value of each other’s presence. We begin to cherish the act of giving and the joy in watching
others receive. In the anxious hustle and bustle of holiday prepping, it’s important to take moments
like these to remember that the magic of the holidays truly lies in the love we share in peaceful
union with one another. Three crystals that help us return to a state of courageous love are
apophyllite, golden apatite and rose quartz.
• Apophyllite is a dreamy stone that resonates at a high vibration- encouraging deep meditation
and spiritual awakening. It serves as a conscious connection between the physical and
spiritual realms, allowing one to recognize and act upon the truth in all situations. As it works
on a high energetic level, it’s an excellent crystal for clearing blockages, activating energy
and releasing any anxiety or negative emotions. In
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moments of stress or doubt, call on Apophyllite’s purifying energy to connect you to spirit
and remind you of your loving intentions.
• As the holidays can often instigate intense situations, having these crystal allies can help
relieve the tension and promote a sense of ease. May they assist you in your holiday travels,
celebrations and in welcoming the New Year. Blessed Be.
Fig 2.1 joining kern stone
Information sheet-3=- Cleaning herbed joints
3.1 Clean and seal joints and cracks
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• Materials: - Use sealants of the class specified on the plans that meet the requirements of
DMS-6310, “Joint Sealants and Fillers.” If required, use primers recommended by the
manufacturer of the sealant. Use backer rods compatible with the sealant that do not react or
bond together.
• Equipment: - Use equipment that meets sealant manufacturer’s recommendations. Use air
compressors equipped with appropriate filters for removing oil and water from the air. For
grooving cracks, use devices such as diamond-blade random-cut saws or random-crack
grinders, capable of following the path of the crack without causing excessive spelling or
other damage to the concrete.
• Construction: - Before starting work, submit information from the sealant manufacturer
showing recommended equipment and installation procedures. All equipment and
procedures will be subject to approval. If the equipment causes damage to dowels,
reinforcing steel, concrete, base, sub base, or sub grade, repair the damage and change the
procedure and equipment to prevent further damage.
• Preparation: - Remove all debris, dirt, dust, saw cuttings, and other foreign material from the
crack or joint by an approved method. Collect and dispose of all the removed material.
• Joints: - Remove existing preformed bituminous fiber board material or other spacer material
the full depth of the joint along with all other debris in the joint opening. Resize the joint
sealant space by sawing to the width and depth shown on the plans to accommodate the
type of sealant specified. On concrete slab and girder bridges, clean debris from the
diaphragm windows below the joints. Abrasive blast clean the vertical faces of joints armored
with steel to remove all visible rust, paint, mill scale, and other forms of contamination,
leaving a white metal appearance. Clean concrete and other surfaces by method approved
and in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications before placing sealant. After
cleaning, air- blasts the joint to remove all dust.
• 2. Cracks:- Unless otherwise specified, groove the crack at the surface so that a reservoir
with a rectangular cross section is provided for the sealant. Cut grooves to the dimensions
shown on the plans. B. Sealing. Place the sealant in accordance with the manufacturer’s
recommended procedures. Apply the primer, when required, at the specified rate and time
interval before applying the sealant.
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• Joints:- For concrete pavement, place approved support spacers into joints as shown on the
plans. Place a backer rod in the joint opening to prevent the sealant from flowing through the
joint and to hold the sealant at its required elevation unless directed otherwise. Set the top of
the sealant and thickness of sealant as shown on the plans. Do not place sealant in an
expansion-type joint if surface temperature is below 55°F or above 90°F.
• 2. Cracks:- Do not place the sealant when the surface temperature is less than 40°F. Set the
top of the sealant 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. below the pavement surface, with a minimum depth of
sealant of 1/2 in. unless otherwise recommended by the sealant.
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FIG 3.1 Sealing Joints and Cracks monument work
Cleaning and Sealing Joints and Cracks (Concrete Pavement)
1. DESCRIPTION;- Clean and seal joints and cracks in concrete pavement.

2. MATERIALS:- Furnish sealant, boards, and backer rods in accordance with DMS-6310, “Joint
Sealants and Fillers.” Furnish primer when required by the sealant manufacturer.
3. Equipment:- Use equipment that meets the sealant manufacturer’s recommendations. Furnish
equipment capable of placing the sealant, backer rods, and boards as detailed on the plans.
Furnish equipment capable of removing all foreign material from the concrete joint or the grooved
crack.
4. work methods:- Use dimensions shown for joint details in standard drawing Concrete Paving
Details, Joint Seals, unless other dimensions are shown on the plans. Make a groove, follow the
cracks to be sealed, and rout the groove approximately 1/2 in. deep * 5/8 in. wide, unless otherwise
directed or shown on the plans.
rnPiJVL-
H si inch Kerbing
—utC JJJ. -_____ . ._
I\\ \ _l
Seal ex'! k \ ^Sub'grade- '-Clean, hard, free
E riyi re Mi* cone rete rainmg ioml -jnd
or iYAPP 12 drainage bedding sand
Plastic
aggregate [base-cayrse| talking membrane
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Fig 3.2 cleaning herbed joints
L #52 LO #7 Fix headstone to back stone
Instruction sheet
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• Measuring and cutting Dowels
• Filling and placing dowel stone
• Raising and lowering headstone
• Finishing and leveling headstone

• Measure and cutt Dowels
• Fill and placing dowel stone
• Raise and lower headstone
• Finish and level headstone Learning Instructions:
3 Read the information written in the information “Sheet 1, 2, 3,4 and 5”.
4 Accomplish the Self-check 1, Self-check t 2, Self-check 2 and Self-check 3” in page -
5, 7, and 9 respectively.
5 if you earned a satisfactory evaluation the self-check proceed to next
Information sheet-1 Measuring and cutting Dowels
Introduction of cutting dowels
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• After drilling holes into the head stone pieces that form the joint, you need to cut the dowels
(in the case where you did not purchase pre-cut dowels). Measure the dowel stick into
required dimensions if you desire longer dowels) sections and mark the pieces with a pencil.
You can also use a hand saw to cut the dowels, making sure that you hold the end in place
to keep the dowel stick from flying up while sawing the piece.
• The problem with cutting dowels (especially small ones) on a chop saw is that the bottom of
the dowel always chips out. The stone saw usually makes for slightly better results, but the
same problem occurs. On the band saw I can sometimes get a cleaner cut since the teeth
are much smaller, but there’s still some degree of chipping and they’re never perfectly flush.
• With a dowel cutting jig, not only can you avoid chipping altogether, you can cut multiple
pieces the same length very quickly.
1.2 How Monuments Are Measured
• All markers and monuments are described by their size in the same fashion, length x width x
height. Length refers to the distance from left to right as you read the marker, width is the
distance from front to back, and height is bottom to the highest point. Monument dimensions
often fluctuate up to 1/2”.
• Below are measurements, and sizes, typically used throughout Oklahoma, for single and
double graves? Keep in mind that your cemetery may require an alternative. Give us a call.
We may have your cemetery information available in our office.
Bevel common sizes:
Single Grave one name 24 x 12 x 6
Single Grave two names 30 x 12 x 6

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Double Grave two names 36 x 12 x 6 or larger depending on amount of artwork.
Figure 1.2 design of flush gravel Flush common sizes:
Single Grave one name 24 x 12 x 4 Single Grave two names 30 x 12 x 4
Double Grave two names 36 x 12 x 4 or larger depending on amount of artwork
Figure 1.3 design double of slant gravel
Slant common size
Infant marker 20 x 10 x 16 Single
Grave one name 24 x 10 x 16

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Single Grave two names 30 x 10 x 16
Double Grave two names 36 x 10 x 16 or larger depending on amount of artwork.
1.3 Monument headstone setting
• Modern granite monuments are usually constructed from two pieces of granite. The upper
headstone section, or die, sits on top of a base stone. The die and base are joined together with
monument setting compound, (suppliers list). This compound is similar in texture to window glazing
putty, or a very thick dough. Unfortunately it does not provide for structural support, but is designed
to fill a void and prevent moisture entry.
• The die and base are separated by wooden blocks, and a bead of monument setting compound
is laid into the joint. Spacers are then placed in each corner. Most monuments today are set on
plastic cushions, (suppliers list). Traditionally monuments were set on four lead strips, one in each
corner. I prefer to use wedge leads (suppliers list), which are tapered to absorb any minor variations
from manufacturing.
Figure 1.1 setting headstone picture.
• A monument setting pinch bar is then employed to drop the die onto its base. The monument
setting compound then squeezes out. The die will drop down until it reaches the spacers.
The excess compound is then cut off and may be reused on the next monument. If no
spacers are used, the die will keep sinking very slowly, and an uneven ugly joint will be
found.
• Gravity keeps the die and base joined, with the monument setting compound acting like the
grout on a tile. In order to make sure the die and base will stay joined together, a stone
epoxy (suppliers list) may be added between the die and base during installation. With
proper surface preparation modern stone epoxies are incredibly tenacious.
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• So why don’t all monuments have stone epoxy added when the sections are joined, because
of the cost and extra time it takes to apply it while setting. Monument dealers will cut costs
however they can, so many will not add epoxy to strengthen their installations. Remember,
as long as the bases stay level, no one will ever know how they are joined together
Information sheet-2 Filling and placing dowel stone
2.1 placing dowel stone memorials and monuments
The erection and placement of memorials, monuments, markers, headstones, footstones, and
mausoleums shall be subject to the supervision and approval of the city. A memorial permit
is required of all installations prior to any work beginning in the cemetery. All patrons are
strongly encouraged to apply for and receive a memorial permit from the city before
purchasing any memorial, monument, or marker. Memorial permits are issued by the
Cemetery Director after a permit application has been received and reviewed. The fee for a
memorial permit is set from time to time by the Mayor and City Council. The purpose of the
memorial permit is to evidence the approval of the city that the memorial to be installed
meets all regulations and requirements of the city. Various sections of the cemeteries have
differing memorial requirements, and therefore an examination of the memorial design or
plan is required to determine compliance with cemetery rules and standards. The first step in
placing a memorial, monument, or marker in the cemetery is the completion of a Memorial
Permit Application.
2.2 Dowelling procedures
Dowelling procedures described are applicable to flat slab markers and to other types of
markers, such as obelisks. Typical failures involve markers that have snapped just above the
top of a base or where a roughly horizontal break has occurred around mid-height.
Lay slab markers on a flat, wooden bench that will support and keep the pieces aligned. Where
a base is present, it must be securely positioned to prevent movement, particularly during
drilling.
Align the elements to be dowelled back together and determine dowel locations, length, and
diameter. For a single break. In a 3-inch-thick marker, the use of threaded stainless steel
dowels, 5 mm to 12 mm (3/8 - 1/2 in) in diameter, is ideal. Two or three dowels should be
used and generally should extend 3 to 4 inches into each piece of stone.
Holes need be only about 6 mm (1/4 in) oversized. Drill holes exactly parallel to the edges of the
stone using a level or jig to ensure accuracy.
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Where a series of holes is drilled, offset the center of each hole to help avoid creating a line of
weakness.
Retain stone dust from drillings. This can become part of the aggregate for mortar fillings to the
stone.
Ensure that holes are exactly matched by dry fitting the dowels and marker pieces together.
Blow out dust from holes with compressed air (a turkey baster works nearly as well).
Flush out holes with acetone, using a syringe.

Prepare resin with a small amount of stone dust so that it is quite stiff and will not run. Using a
spatula or Popsicle stick, place a little resin in the hole. Coat the threaded dowel with the
When using three dowels, offset the

centre hole slightly to avoid
producing a line of weakness in the
stone.
Resin should be used only to set

the dowels. Use mortar on abutting
stone surfaces.
Figure 2.1 design of rising dowels
Remainder of the resin and set it in the hole, turning the dowel to ensure proper sealing and filling
between the stone and the dowel. Allow mixture to set fully.
Another option is to use slow-setting gel resins which do not leak from holes and do not need to be
set fully before the next step begins. This is the technique used at the Churchville cemetery project -
see Appendix A. Either way, it is important that the dowels remain straight in the holes and do not
tilt. There is a danger of using holes that are too oversized for the pins.
Apply resin to holes on the piece to be mated and to the remainder of dowel. Carefully bring the two
pieces together until they fit snugly.
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Resin that hardens can be removed only physically and will result in pieces of stone coming away
with resin. Therefore, immediately remove any excess resin, using rags and, where necessary,
some acetone.
Properly support monument and allow repairs to set fully before proceeding with mortar repairs.
Information sheet-3 Raising and lowering headstone
3.1 raised headstones
• If you are looking for something smaller than an upright monument but more noticeable than
a flat marker, than a raised headstone might be the right choice for you. Raised headstones
typically come in two styles: bevel markers and slant markers. Browse the design galleries
below to see examples of raised headstones.
• There are generally two styles of raised headstones: bevels and slants. A bevel marker has
a 2” pitch, or bevel, from front to back, making it easier to find in the cemetery than a lawn
level headstone. A slant marker is usually 12 - 16 inches tall and can be ordered with or
without a granite base. Slant markers come in a variety of interesting shapes and finishes
allowing for a more personal and creative memorial tribute. Families and individuals in
Chicago, Illinois and the Chicago metropolitan area, or Chicago land, have been buying
gravestones for Chicago cemeteries from the Peter Troost Monument Company for many
generations.
Figure 3.1 pictures of type raised headstone
3.2 Browse Raised and Upright Granite Monument Designs
• In contrast to lawn-level markers, raised and upright granite monuments can be seen and
admired from a distance. Raised monuments include bevel and slant, while upright
monuments sit straight up on a base and can be several feet high (see examples
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below). Statues are also considered upright monuments. Inscribed with beautiful etchings or
engravings by the skilled memorial artists at Rome Monuments, custom designed raised and
upright monuments can be for any number of graves and come in a variety of styles and
shapes. These headstones often feature symbols and imagery that convey the specific
nationality or religion of the deceased. You can select from a wide variety of granite colors for
both traditional and cremation memorials in different price ranges.
• Browsing raised and upright monuments is simple. Talk with a designer at Rome Monument
to learn about your design artwork options for a memorial for a family member. Raised and
upright monuments are available for most Pittsburgh area cemeteries and memorial parks in
Allegheny County and Western Pennsylvania.
Information sheet-4 Finishing and leveling headstone
4.1 Finishing headstone monuments

Monuments can be finished in a variety of ways. Like any industry, the monument industry has its
own lingo used to describe its products. Short definitions of the common monument finishes are
listed below. A;-
POLISHED SURFACES:- are smooth and shiny. After granite blocks are quarried, they are sawn
into slabs of the desired thickness. The sawn surfaces are then polished firstly with a coarse
abrasive, then successively finer abrasives until perfectly smooth. The final shiny finish is achieved
with a buffing process that uses an extremely fine abrasive. Most monuments have at least some
polished areas.
ROCK PITCHED:- are rough, rock surfaces that have been pitched by hand using a hammer and
chisel to achieve a finished, consistent rock effect.
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SAWN SIDES: - are smooth, but may have lines in the finish from the saw blade, and are generally
used only for surfaces that will not be visible after the monument is installed.
HONED SURFACES:- are surfaces that been partially polished. They are not shiny but are very
smooth. They are rarely used - their primary application is the provide decorative contrast to
polished areas.
Figure 4.1 parts of monumental finish
STIPPLED; - surfaces appear as small white “dimples” caused by stunning the surface with a small
pointed tool.
STEELED SURFACES: - are smooth surfaces that have been sandblasted using steel shot, which
gives a bright, white, textured finish.
DUSTED SURFACES: - are smooth surfaces that have been sandblasted using abrasive grit. It is a
more common treatment than steeling, and returns a similar texture, but it is not as bright. Both
dusting and steeling are used for exposed monument surfaces where polished or rock pitched
effects are not desired. A very common application for both treatments is the contrasting panel
behind sandblasted lettering on memorials.
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Figure 4.1 sample of stippled surface
LG #50 LO #8 Fill center and finish with chip top
Instruction sheet
• Filling and finishing center area
• Placing brick/concrete support
• Constructing reinforced concrete slab
• Mixing and spreading finishing material
November 2023
• Fill and finishing center area
• Place brick/concrete support
• Construct reinforced concrete slab
• Mix and spreading finishing material
Information sheet-1 Filling and finishing center area
1.1 What is finishing work and process?
• It refers to the final stage of the construction work. "Rough" work would be something like
framing, electrical and piping. "Finish" work refers to the exterior and interior finishing of buildings
and structures to enhance their service and aesthetic qualities.
• Finishing processes may be employed to: improve appearance, adhesion or wet ability, solder
ability, corrosion resistance, tarnish resistance, chemical resistance, wear resistance, hardness,
modify electrical conductivity, remove burrs and other surface flaws, and control the surface friction.
1.2 How Monument Setting Works
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Here at Family Memorials, we offer complete monument services, from the beginning
consultation with our monument experts to the final placement of your stone in the cemetery.
• This last step, the setting of the stone, is one aspect of the process most people outside of the
monument business are unfamiliar with. In this post, we’ll aim to answer all of your questions
about how we go about setting stones in a cemetery, starting with loading up our setting
trucks.
Fig 1.1 finishing work of monument
Information sheet-2 Placing brick/concrete support
2.1 How to Adhere Brick Paver Patterns to Concrete

Adding brick or brick pavers to a backyard patio or walkway creates a decorative and more stylish
surface, which adds to the overall look of your landscaping. The concrete that's already in place is
the perfect base for laying a decorative brick, giving the pavers support so they don't sink or
become uneven. To attach the bricks to older concrete, a special process is used to ensure
adhesion.
Good choice for laying brick and block, grouting stone or brick pavers and repairing mortar joints.
A contractor grade of Type masonry cement and graded sand. Use for structural masonry
applications both above and below grade;-
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1. Lay out a row of bricks along the concrete surface to determine your pattern. You can create a
variety of patterns with brick pavers. Leave a 1/2-inch gap between the bricks. Pick the bricks up
after deciding on your layout.
2. Mix up a runny batch of cement. This is sometimes referred to as a slurry and is the
consistency of a thin milkshake. In a separate container, mix a batch of mortar according to
package directions.
3. Pour a thin layer of slurry over a 2-foot section of the concrete, then scoop mortar on top of it
with a shovel. Spread the mortar to a 1-inch thickness. The slurry acts as a binding agent between
the concrete and the mortar.
4. Place bricks on the mortar surface, pressing in slightly. Use spacers to set them 1/2-inch apart.
Place a board or level across the bricks as you go to ensure they are the same height.
5. Let the mortar dry for 24 hours.
6. Mix up a new batch of mortar and put it in a mortar bag, which is similar to an icing bag.
7. Set the tip of the bag in the cracks between the bricks. Squeeze the bag to express the mortar
into the gaps.
8. Skim a jointer tool along the fresh mortar in the cracks to press it in and form a slight indention.
9. Allow the mortar to dry 24 hours before walking on the new surface.
10. Place metal edging in the ground around the outside of the concrete and brick. Tap it down
with a hammer, ensuring that it sticks up enough to overlap the bottom of the brick. Metal stakes
come with the edging. Insert them into the edging anchor holes and tap them into the ground.
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Fig 2.1 Adhere Brick Paver Patterns to Concrete
To attach the bricks to older concrete, a special process is used to ensure adhesion:-Lay out a row
of bricks along the concrete surface to determine your pattern. ...
Mix up a runny batch of cement. ...

Pour a thin layer of slurry over a 2-foot section of the concrete, then scoop mortar on top of it with a
shovel.
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Fig 2.2 attach the bricks with mortar and concrete
2.1 Placing and Finishing Concrete

• Mixing, transporting, and handling of concrete should be carefully coordinated with placing and
finishing operations. Concrete should not be deposited more rapidly than it can be spread, struck
off, consolidated, and bull floated and deposited continuously as near as possible to its final
position.
• In slab construction, placing should be started along the perimeter at one end of the work with
each batch placed against previously dispatched concrete. Do not dump the concrete in separate
piles and then level and work them together; nor should it be deposited in large piles and moved
horizontally into final position.
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2.1.1 Consolidation
• In some types of construction, the concrete is placed in forms, and then consolidated.
Consolidation compacts fresh concrete to mold it within the forms and around embedded
items and reinforcement and to eliminate stone pockets, honeycomb, and entrapped air.
• Vibration, either internal or external, is the most widely used method for consolidating
concrete. When concrete is vibrated, the internal friction between the aggregate particles is
temporarily destroyed and the concrete behaves like a liquid; it settles in the forms under the
action of gravity and the large entrapped air voids rise more easily to the surface.
2.1.2 Finishing
• Concrete that will be visible, such as driveways, highways, or patios, often needs finishing.
Slabs can be finished in many ways, depending on the intended service use. Options
include various colors and textures, such as exposed aggregate or a patterned-stamped
surface. Some surfaces may require only strike off and screwing to proper contour and
elevation, while for other surfaces a broomed, floated, or troweled finish may be specified.
• Screeding or strike off is the process of cutting off excess concrete to bring the top surface of
the slab to proper grade. A straight edge is moved across the concrete with a sawing motion
and advanced forward a short distance with each movement
Information sheet-3 Constructing reinforced concrete slab
3.1 What is reinforced concrete?

• Concrete is a relatively brittle material that is strong under compression but less so in tension. ...
To increase its overall strength, steel rods, wires, mesh or cables can be embedded in concrete
before it sets. This reinforcement, often known as rebar, resists tensile forces
• Most concrete used for construction is a combination of concrete and reinforcement that is called
reinforced concrete. Steel is the most common material used as reinforcement, but other materials
such as fiber-reinforced polymer (FRP) are also used.
Composite Materials - Reinforced Concrete. Concrete is made from small stones and gravel called
aggregate, sharp sand, cement and water. The small stone and gravel (aggregate) is
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the reinforcement and the cement is the matrix that binds it together. ... The concrete is cast around
the rods.
Reinforced concrete :- (RC) (also called reinforced cement concrete or RCC) is a composite
material in which concrete's relatively low tensile strength and ductility are counteracted by the
inclusion of reinforcement having higher tensile strength or ductility. The reinforcement is usually,
though not necessarily, steel reinforcing bars (rebar) and is usually embedded passively in the
concrete before the concrete sets. Reinforcing schemes are generally designed to resist tensile
stresses in particular regions of the concrete that might cause unacceptable cracking and/or
structural failure. Modern reinforced concrete can contain varied reinforcing materials made of steel,
polymers or alternate composite material in conjunction with rebar or not. Reinforced concrete may
also be permanently stressed (concrete in compression, reinforcement in tension), so as to improve
the behavior of the final structure under working loads. In the United States, the most common
methods of doing this are known as pre¬tensioning and post-tensioning.
For a strong, ductile and durable construction the reinforcement needs to have the following
properties at least:-
High relative strength
High toleration of tensile strain
Good bond to the concrete, irrespective of pH, moisture, and similar factors
Thermal compatibility, not causing unacceptable stresses (such as expansion or contraction) in
response to changing temperatures.
Durability in the concrete environment, irrespective of corrosion or sustained stress
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Fig 3.1 Reinforced concrete slab steel work
Information sheet-4 Mixing and spreading finishing material

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4.1 Concrete Floor Finishes
• The most common industrial floor finishing material used today is concrete. When well laid it
provides a hard and durable surface capable of meeting most floor service requirements at
relatively low cost.
4.1.1The Base Slab
• For simplicity, it will be assumed that the base slab on which a finish is to be installed has
adequate structural strength for the applied. loads. The concrete should be made with hard
well-graded aggregates and should normally contain not more than 4% gallons of water for
each sack of cement. It should be a plastic mix that can be placed without voids and without
accumulation of excess water on the surface. The proportions of fine and coarse aggregate
should be adjusted to obtain a mix of desired workability but should normally be in the range
of 1 part cement to 2% parts of fine aggregate to 3% parts of coarse aggregate. The
aggregate should be well graded, the fine material ranging in size from % inch down and the
coarse material from % inch up to % inches. The concrete should be thoroughly compacted
by vibrating or by tamping and spading. Subsequent steps will vary with the type of floor
finish selected.
4.1.2 Selecting the Finish
• The method of finishing a new floor should depend on the service requirements to which it
will be exposed. For light duty, where abrasion is not a serious problem, it may be sufficient
to finish the base slab simply by floating and toweling. If a power float is used, such a floor
should be satisfactory for trucks with rubber tired wheels and even for light trucks with steel
tires. The concrete should be floated to the desired grade and allowed to stand until all water
sheen has disappeared. Final toweling should be done only when the concrete is so hard
that no mortar accumulates on the trowel and a ringing sound is produced as the trowel is
drawn over the surface.
• There are many industrial uses, however, for which the plain finish floor is not adequate and
it becomes necessary to provide an improved surface by applying a special wear resistant
topping. This topping may be placed either monolithically during the laying of the base slab
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and before it has set, or as a separate layer applied after the base slab has hardened. Both
methods are used and each has its specific advantages.
• One advantage cited for a monolithically applied topping is that it more readily ensures a
good bond between the topping and the base. Separation and curling of the wearing layer
that result from inadequate bonding combined with the effects of shrinkage arc, common
faults in separately applied toppings; they are aggravated as the toppings are made thicker.
4.1.3 Control of Quality
• The main principles of good concrete floor construction are not new. They are simply the
application of current concrete technology to the particular requirements of floors. Much of
the discussion contained in CBD 15, "Concrete," is of direct interest to this problem which
involves;
(i) the quality of the aggregate,
(ii) the proportions of the mix and amount of mixing water used,
(iii) the operations of placing and finishing,

(iv) the provisions for proper curing of the newly placed floor and its protection until it has
attained sufficient hardness for service.
4.1.4 Surface Treatments
Even the best floor will tend to produce some dusting of the surface in use. This can be
reduced by applying a material that will assist in hardening and binding, but these treatments
should not be regarded as cure-alls for poor materials or careless workmanship. Although
treatment will improve many surfaces it cannot be expected to make a good wearing surface
of a poorly built floor. A number of proprietary hardening materials are available.
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Fig 4.1 Surface Treatments with mortar
LG #54 LO #9 Fit cover stone and finish monument

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Instruction sheet
• Measuring and cutting dowel joints
• Filling and finishing center area
• Filling dowel holes
• Placing and positioning cover stone
• Finishing joints
• Measure and cute dowel joints
• Fill and finishing center area
• Fill dowel holes
• Place and positioning cover stone
• Finish joints
Information sheet-1 Measuring and cutting dowel joints
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Introduction of measuring joints
Measurement of cutting dowel joint works in construction is required for calculation of quantities of
materials in masonry and to measure completed work. Dowel joint works are those where cement
and fine aggregates without any coarse aggregates are used for construction purpose.
1.2 repairing broken bases of dowel joint
Wherever possible, reuse the existing base and repair, rather than replace, the base.
Proprietary restoration mortar such as John mortar can be placed and formed very simply to profile
and tooled to match the adjacent stone. It sets up nearly as hard as the stone and can, if allowed to
cure fully, perform in the same way as the stone.
Repair with restoration mortar requires particular skills and should be carried out only by individuals
who have completed the training program introduced by the product Manufacturer.
The technique should generally be limited to relatively minor and straightforward repairs. Major
repairs should be carried out with a matching stone or a new base prepared either in stone or in a
high-quality, cast stone material. Avoid crude concrete bases.
Slots are vulnerable to frost damage, as they can fill with water. Bases left without a marker should
have their slots filled with mortar. Bases repaired with restoration mortar can incorporate a discreet
weep hole to allow moisture to escape. If bases are sound and Performing well, a weep hole is
probably unnecessary
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Fig 1.1 fixing dowel joint
Information sheet-2 Filling and finishing center area
2.1 What is finishing work and process?
It refers to the final stage of the construction work. "Rough" work would be something like framing,
electrical and piping. "Finish" work refers to the exterior and interior finishing of buildings and
structures to enhance their service and aesthetic qualities.
Finishing processes may be employed to: improve appearance, adhesion or wet ability, solder
ability, corrosion resistance, tarnish resistance, chemical resistance, wear resistance, hardness,
modify electrical conductivity, remove burrs and other surface flaws, and control the surface friction.
2.2 How Monument Setting Works
Here at Family Memorials, we offer complete monument services, from the beginning consultation
with our monument experts to the final placement of your stone in the cemetery.
This last step, the setting of the stone, is one aspect of the process most people outside of the
monument business are unfamiliar with. In this post, we’ll aim to answer all of your questions about
how we go about setting stones in a cemetery, starting with loading up our setting trucks.
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1. Mortar: - All the mortars recommended in this book for repair work are based on lime. While
lime traditionally was used in all types of building work, today it tends to be limited to work on
historic buildings and monuments. As a result, it is not as readily available as it once was, and
contractors may not be very familiar with its use. Some may need time to familiarize themselves
with its properties, correct mixing procedures, and applications
2. Mix proportion: - Take out sufficient coarse stuff for use and rework it with a baseball bat to a
plastic consistency.
• Add the white Portland cement or other pozzolan in the correct proportion to the coarse stuff.
Ensure thorough and even distribution. Avoid the temptation to add more water to make mixing
easier.
• Use the mixture within 45 minutes. Do not rework it or add water to it.
Use of Hydraulic Limes
• Because experience with use of these limes is limited and they can be unpredictable in their
performance, only experienced practitioners should work with them.
• When preparing a 1:3:9 mix, one mixes The following:
- One part white Portland cement
- Three parts lime putty
- Nine parts aggregate 2. 3 Placing and Curing

• Lime mortars require carbon dioxide from the air to help them harden. Even when mixed with
cements or pozzolans, they continue to cure for a long time, usually up to several months.
• Keep freshly placed mortars moist and protect them from sun, wind, and heat, all of which will
dry them out too rapidly, causing shrinkage and cracking. Heavy rain can wash out fresh mortars.
• To help the curing process and to reduce the likelihood of shrinkage, keep mortars dampened
for the first two or three days by lightly spritzing them with spray bottles at regular intervals, or
covering them with damp burlap. Sometimes damp, absorbent paper towels work well.
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Place mortars with small tools to keep repairs neat and well compacted.
• Plan repairs so that mortars have as much time as possible to cure before they are exposed to
frost. One month is the absolute minimum; two or three months is preferable.
Fig 2.1 mix mortar
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Fig 2.2 finishing work of monument
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Information sheet-3 Filling dowel holes
3.1 choosing the right concrete dowel drill
Technology leads to better, faster, easier-to-maintain equipment, increases uptime, and makes the
jobsite more efficient. In the concrete paving industry, we have seen this trend in significant changes
to dowel drilling equipment. Once, only one option existed: handheld models. When the first
machine, a hydraulic drill, was launched more than 30 years ago, it was the first real innovation to
this equipment. Higher production was possible, and less backbreaking manual labor was required.
Although hydraulic drills were a step in the right direction, they were accompanied by many
drawbacks including the need for additional equipment not commonly found on the jobsite, the risk
of hydraulic fluid spills, and time consuming and costly maintenance protocols. Soon, a third option
became available: pneumatic drill systems, which have become the equipment of choice, essentially
becoming the industry standard. Pneumatic drills operate using an air compressor common
equipment on many worksites.
1 Scratching the surface: - Drill selection should be equated to one primary factor: application. All
characteristics of the job must be considered, but a major factor is how many total holes will be
drilled. Combine that with outside factors, such as conditions, deadlines, and expected production
rate.
When deciding on a drill, first and foremost consider the scope of the concrete paving project. A
residential curb-and-gutter pour requires a different drill than a large airport paving job. Also
examine other job factors, such as space, sub grade provisions, and mobility. Space alone can
determine the model of drill. If space is limited and only a few inches of slab are exposed, a slab-
rider is eliminated and on-grade is the best choice. Limited space also may determine the number of
gangs on the drill. Conversely, on larger projects, space is not an issue and a large slab-rider model
is the ideal choice. Self-propelled units can move along these projects easily, while also towing the
air compressor for added efficiency and reduced labor.
2. How many holes:- Choosing between a single- or multigang model is the next consideration.
Because every project has different requirements for the number of holes needed, drills are offered
with different gang options. Maximum efficiency is key in gang selection. Although it may seem like
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a five-gang drill is going to be faster and more productive than a single-gang drill, it actually may be
overkill and inefficient.
3. Drilling even deeper ;- Although a project may have several thousand holes, jobsite conditions
can limit how many are drilled at once and a single-gang unit may be more efficient. Or, a job
requiring just a few thousand holes but with a tight deadline, may require a higher production drill.
Some jobsites only allow a set number of holes to be drilled at a time. Concrete needs to set before
it can be drilled into, and often several individual pours are required on a project. When looking at
the sheer volume of holes only, a five-gang drill may seem warranted but further examination of the
project’s logistics may conclude a smaller drill will be more economical.
2.2 mortar filling of missing elements
Mortar fillings can replace missing elements effectively and for a long time ifthey are modest in
scope and the work is carried out by experienced individuals.
Repair mortar must have similar characteristics to the stone on which it is being used. These types
of repairs should be viewed as sacrificial: in conditions of stress, it is the mortar that will fail, rather
than the stone. These characteristics are usually obtained with mortars mixed from lime, a variety of
graded aggregates, and a small amount of white Portland cement.
There is also considerable scope for use of hydraulic limes, which are increasingly available again,
as the binder, instead of the combination of white Portland cement and ordinary lime.
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Fig 3.1 placing cover stone monument work
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Information sheet-4 Placing and positioning cover stone
4.1 Memorial Placement and Work
Before any memorial work will be considered, an application, signed by owner of burial rights in and
lot and the contractor, must be filed at the cemetery office. Upon approval of the application, a copy
of the form will be returned to the contractor for his files. This is his authorization to go ahead with
the proposed work and can be carried while he is performing the work covered by the application.
Any rejected application will be returned to the contractor with reason for it's disapproval indicated
thereon.
A complete executed application must be filed for any contemplated changes, inscriptions or
additions to memorials already set. These applications will be handled in exactly the same way as
an application for new work.
Pictures, as well as words Perpetual Care and similar phrases are not permitted on memorial work.
Benches, corner posts and planting baskets are not allowed. No new vases may be placed in the
cemetery.
All memorial work must be Granite. Generally, work showing knots, evidence of doctoring, or with a
tendency to create dirt pockets is not acceptable. Artificial coloring of any type is prohibited. No
machine marks to show.
Raised monuments are permitted on certain lots. Other lots and areas are entirely restricted to flush
markers. Only one upright marker may be set on a grave. Four flush markers are permitted on one
grave lot.
An upright marker on a single lot must be no bigger than 3' high X 3' wide. A marker for a double lot
may be no bigger than 3' high X 6'wide. All memorial designs must be of a religious nature to reflect
the fact that this is a Roman Catholic Cemetery.
Flush Markers must be made of Granite and must be 4 inches thick with beveled top edge and
sawed sides and bottom. Markers on adult graves have a standard size of 12 inches by 24 inches.
The carving or lettering on stone markers may not come closer than 1 inch to any edge.
All monuments and markers set in cemetery shall have inscribed thereon a cross. This regulation
accepts those memorials which are cruciform or which have as their principal feature a statue or
relief of evident religious significance.
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The working hours for setting, cleaning or inscribing memorials shall be the same as the cemetery
workday and in all cases work must end at the same time as the cemetery workday and advance
notice of date and time must be given to the cemetery office. Trucks are not allowed on any grass
area. The repair of any damage to turf caused by any memorial dealer will be charged to his
account.
The use of marble statues is prohibited.
Contractors working in the vicinity of an interment must suspend their work until the conclusion of
the service.
St. Patrick Cemetery does not assume responsibility for the care of monuments or markers or any
damage to them by accident or willful action. In the event any memorial is damaged, the cemetery
reserves the right to remove the damaged memorial if not repaired or contracted to be repaired
within ten days of notice sent to the lot owner at his last known address. Repairs must be approved
by the cemetery.
Any violation of these rules and regulations by the contractor is his sole responsibility even though
he has received a copy from the cemetery office.
Any dealer who violates the rules of the cemetery may be denied the privilege of installing
memorials in the cemetery.
No monument or marker shall be removed from the cemetery, except by the Cemetery personnel,
unless a written order executed by the lot owner is presented at the cemetery office and written
permission is granted.
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Fig 2.1 placing cover stone monument
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Information sheet-5 Finish joint
5.1 introduction of Finish
There are three surface finishes you may choose for a granite monument: rock pitch, steeled, and
polished. You may also choose any of these in combination.
Rock pitch finish: A rock pitch finish is a natural, rough-hewn finish used only on the edges or backs
of monuments.
A steeled finish is a matte, or satin, finish on a smooth

stone.
Fig 5.1 polished finish: Fig 5.2 rock pitch finish
5.2 Finish Great Dry parte Joints
Is not an easy task. Some like to use wider drywall knives when finishing drywall joints, while others
tend to select specific joint compound. Furthermore, be sure to select appropriate materials, follow
these tips, and you will get great finish drywall joints.
5.2.1 Finish Dry parte Joints Tips
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Keep your knives as clean as possible. Wipe off excess joint compound after each pass with the
knife.
Never mixed dried compound with fresh compound. Dried joint compound will leave an uneven
finished surface. Remove dried joint compound from the pan.
Make sure ALL screws are set below the surface. You should run a knife over all screws - if the
knife hits a screw head, the screw must be set in further.
I would recommend using a fast drying, low shrinkage patching plaster or spackle for filling gaps.
Do not put too much joint compound in the knife. Using a small amount to finish drywall joint will
allow you to minimize joint compound waste.
Use flexible knife blades. Try to flex the blade with your hands to see if it’s an appropriate knife to be
used.
Start by finishing butt joints, joints that occur on the ends of drywall sheets.
After all butt joints are finished, move on to tapered joints. Tapered joints are the ones along the
edges.
. The last areas to be worked are inside corners followed by outside corners. When finishing inside
corners drywall joints, remember to work one side at a time.
Mix the joint compound before applying. Even ready-mixed joint compound should be mixed to
smooth out the compound.
For better results mix joint compound using a mixing paddle attached to an electric drill. If you want
to finish butt joints, remember to wipe off joint compound from both corners of the knife.
Important tip: Very quickly pass the tape piece through a bucket of water wetting both sides of the
tape.
Once the butt joint is covered with joint compound, cut a piece of tape and embed it over the joint
line. The tape must be placed over the middle of the butt joint. Cut tape to the length of all joints you
will be finishing before starting
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Fig 5.3 different types of finishing joints
LG #55 LO #10 Cleaning up

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Instruction sheet
• Cleaning and polishing monument
• Waste management
• Housekeeping
• Clean and polish monument
• Waste management
• House keep Learning Instructions:
Follow the instructions described below 3 to 4.
Read the information written in the information “Sheet 1, Sheet 2, and Sheet 3”.
Accomplish the “Self-check 1, Self-check t 2, and Self-check 3” in page -3, 5 and 7
respectivel
Information sheet-1 Cleaning and polishing monument

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1.1 introduction of cleaning
We recommend the cleaning and maintenance of a memorial stone should only be carried out by
professionals who have the required level of expertise, knowledge and practical skills. However, if
you wish to clean your loved one’s memorial stone, please ensure that you don’t use any materials
that can damage the stone.
There is a perception that since granite and marble are such strong materials their surfaces can
withstand chemical cleaning agents and wire brushes. Where in fact, the surfaces are best cleaned
with simply water and a soft cloth. What some people may not be aware of, is that smooth polished
monument surfaces can be easily scratched by strong bristles on a brush or permanently stained by
chemical cleaners. Never use shaving cream or other household chemicals to clean the stone.
Although they may highlight the inscriptions quickly during the cleaning process, they are harmful to
the memorial stone in the long run. Some cleaners can even eat through a smooth polished granite
finish. Power washers are also not recommended unless they are used by professional monument
cleaners.
For marble monuments, we highly recommend calling a professional monument cleaner for this type
of stone. Marble monuments in particular are very hard to clean safely as they are a softer stone
that can easily stain.
Water and household glass cleaner (not industrial strength glass cleaners) are the only products we
recommend for cleaning monuments. It is important to note that when using household glass
cleaner in the final cleaning phase, ensure that the entire product is polished completely dry. Do not
leave any liquid residue on the surface.
For everyday maintenance there are a few simple processes that can be followed to help ensure
that a memorial stays in good condition. The following are broad guidelines which, if followed
correctly, will help maintain the general appearance of your loved one’s headstone or gravestone.
1.2 Cleaning Granite Memorial Stones
Depending upon the amount of debris that has accumulated on the gravestone, gently wash with
water and a soft cloth the worst of the dirt. Simply wet a soft brush in a bucket of water and gently
scrub away the debris from the stone. Be prepared, as this process may take a bit of time, even for
a 4 foot square surface.
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Remember that water is the safest cleaning product to use on the stone. Any soaps or cleaners
containing oils can penetrate into the stone and cause discoloration. Household glass cleaner can
be used (once the worst of the debris is cleaned off) in order to give it a streak- free polished finish.
Here are a few tips and suggestions to protect and maintain a memorial stone:
The safest way to clean a headstone is to use natural clean water or distilled water
Using a bucket and lots of water, keep the stone wet through the entire washing process
In order to clean a polished or honed granite memorial stone, wash it well with a soft, damp cloth
Do not use household cleaners as they may contain chemicals that my stain the monument
Avoid using a protective coating which is impermeable to water vapor as it is likely to stain or
damage the stone beyond repair
Use “household” glass cleaner (not industrial strength glass cleaner) to creating a streak free finish
Ensure that the glass cleaner is completely polished (dry to the touch) on the monument surface
Remember, the modern techniques used to clean and maintain new granite memorials may not be
applicable for old stones. The techniques used for modern stone are not safe for 200+ year old
markers. Each stone needs its own diagnosis. What is good in one situation is not necessarily good
for all. Contact us if you would like a more detailed understanding of cleaning granite memorial
stones their distinct qualities, styles, textures, colors as well as the maintenance of bronze
memorials.
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M05 Erect Stone Memorial and Monument

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Module Title: Erecting stone memorials and monument

• Selecting and using Appropriate personal protective equipment

• checking Tools and equipment for service

• check Tools and equipment for service

Definitions of Memorials, Monuments, and Markers

• Memorial means a monument, tombstone, grave marker, tablet or headstone identifying a

ornamentation in combination with granite and marble

Compound Sliding MITRE Saw

quick, accurate crosscut in a work piece at a selected angle.

guarantees a long life and remains accurate.

• Impelling tools can be used when installing moldings and linings.

• The claw hammer is used to attach paneling to framework.

Ear Defenders in Designated Areas

Wear Gloves for Manual Handling Tasks

Hi Visibility Clothing Must 0e Worn

Safety Boots Must Be Worn

No Children & Unauthorised Persons

4.1.3 Sanitation Requirements

Information Sheet 5. Material, tools and equipment requirements

5.1 tools and equipment requirements

LG #47 LO #2- Construct footings and prepare monument stones

• Setting out and excavation

• Measuring & leveling

• Laying out concrete footings

• Set out and excavation

• Measure & leveling

• Lay out concrete footings

• Pour concrete Learning Instructions:

2 Follow the instructions described below 3 to 6.

4 Accomplish the “Self-check 1, Self-check 2, and Self-check 3” Self-check 3, Self-check

5 If you earned a satisfactory evaluation from the “Self-check” proceed to “Operation

Information Sheet 1 Setting out and excavation

• introduction of setting out excavation

1.1.1 Understand your site

Where construction is being carried out, it’s usually necessary to:

• accurately locate boundary lines

• verify the location of underground and overhead services

boundary peg boundary peg

Figure 1.1 Clear set-out with single offset dimensions.

1.2 Excavation procedure for foundation

Information sheet-2 Measuring & leveling

Fig 2.1 Tombstone in need of leveling

Figure 2.3 The Clamp system for the Tombstone Jack

2.2 Gravel to level

2.2.1 Place down and measure

Figure 2.5 remove the around Tombstone

Information sheet- 3 Fixing formwork

3.1 Formwork (Shuttering) for Concrete Construction

• Construction of formwork should permit removal of various parts in desired sequences

It should be as light as possible.

• It should rest on firm base.

3.2.1 Economy in Formwork

3.3 Types of Formwork (Shuttering) for Concrete Construction:

• Steel formwork does not absorb moisture from concrete.

• Teal formwork does not shrink or warp.

3.4 Construction of Concrete formwork:

This normally involves the following operations:

• Propping and centering Shuttering

• Cleaning and surface treatment

3.4.1 Order and Method of Removing Formwork:

The sequence of orders and method of removal of formwork are as follows:

Information sheet-4 Laying out concrete footings

4.1 introduction of concrete