Tema 3a Ingeniería Costera

Ingeniería Oceánica y Costera
Tema 3: Ingeniería costera
Juan Gabriel Rueda Bayona

Contenido
Tema 3. Ingeniería costera
3.1 Hidrodinámica del oleaje.
3.2 Transporte de sedimentos.
3.3 Estructuras de protección costera.
Introducción.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9sqzpTvxN0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoLAxZlbZnA
Ocean gravity waves with small amplitude compared to the wave length are usually
described linear wave theory (usually called the Airy theory
Linear wave/regular wave theory (Airy theory) in finite depth

DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-12175-8
Linear wave/regular wave theory (Airy theory) in finite depth
𝐿= 𝜆 h=𝑑
Source: Chakrabart, 2005)

Group and phase velocity
Frequency dispersion in bichromatic groups of gravity waves on the surface of deep water. The red square
moves with the phase velocity, and the green circles propagate with the group velocity.
DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-12175-8
Solución implícita recomendada para
Deepwater criterion and wavelength aguas intermedias
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/M_Rafiuddin_Ahmed/publication/235634121/figure/fig5/AS:668212471558169@1536325676939/The-orbital-motion-in-deep-water-intermediate-depth-water-and-shallow-water-16.png
2.3 Fuerzas y cargas sobre la estructura: Regular Wave Theory
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)
Regular Wave Theory
Velocity profiles

Formulas for linear wave theory

Exercise!
Calculate at the surface the following linear/regular wave properties:
Cp, Cg, velocities, accelerations, dynamic pressure.
Reference data:
Tip: identify Deepwater criterion and wavelength.

Example’s answer
Exercise!
Using the same parameters of the previous exercise, calculate the profiles of total
velocity, total acceleration, dynamic pressure.
Reference data:
Tip: in Excel or MATLAB organize data, vectors and matrix

Exercise!
Using the same parameters of the previous exercise,
calculate the time series at surface of velocity u,vw and
dynamic pressure.
Reference data:
Tip: in Excel or MATLAB organize data, vectors and matrix

Second-Order Stokes Wave Theory
Time history of first- and second-order components
https://www.sciencedirect.com/book/9780080443812/handbook-of-offshore-engineering
3.1 Hidrodinámica del oleaje. Second-Order Stokes Wave Theory
s= y+d
Fifth-Order Stokes Wave Theory
Example of five components of velocity for Stokes fifth-order theory
Fifth-Order Stokes Wave Theory
It has significant effect on the structure only near the free surface. Away from the MWL, the waves behave
more like the linear wave.
2.3 Fuerzas y cargas sobre la estructura: Regular Wave Theory
Applicability of Wave
Theory [API, 2000]
2.3 Fuerzas y cargas sobre la estructura: Irregular Wave Theory
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
3.1 Hidrodinámica del oleaje : Irregular Wave Theory
The normal wind-induced pressure moving

as a (nearly) frozen distribution across the
water surface.
The wave-induced wind-pressure

variation over a propagating harmonic
wave.
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Frequencies and periods of the vertical motions of the ocean surface (after Munk, 1950).
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
The up-and-down motion of the sea surface in a storm, as experienced by a buoy, i.e., the sea-surface elevation at one
location as a function of time.
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
A bird’s eye view of ocean waves, as recorded with stereo-

photography with cameras looking down from two helicopters,
i.e., the sea-surface elevation as a function of horizontal co-
ordinates at one moment in time (the contour line interval is
0.20 m, shaded areas are below mean sea level; from the files of
the author, see Holthuijsen, 1983a, 1983b)
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
The WAVERIDER buoy at sea. The buoy

measures its own vertical acceleration to
estimate the sea-surface motion (photo
courtesy of Datawell, Haarlem, the
Netherlands).
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Two measurement techniques with

a wave pole: electrical resistance
and electrical capacitance (photo
courtesy of the Institute of Marine
Sciences, Venice, Italy) .
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
A pressure transducer, current meter or

inverted echo- sounder mounted at the
sea bottom (they may also be mounted at
some depth on a platform piercing the
water surface).
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Stereo-photography from two airplanes with three-dimensional surface information where the two photographs overlap.
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
3.1 Hidrodinámica del oleaje : Irregular
Wave Theory
Radar altimetry from a

satellite. Note that in this
figure the time axes are
interrupted to separate the
time scale of the arrival of
the radar return at the
satellite (distance to mean
sea surface) from the time
scale of the shape of the
radar return (giving sea-
surface roughness).
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
3.1 Hidrodinámica del oleaje :
Irregular Wave Theory
The definition of a ‘wave’ in a time record of the

surface elevation with downward zero-crossings
(upper panel) or upward zero-crossings (lower panel).
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Time series statistics (Short-term statistics)
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.stormgeo.com%2Fproducts%2Fs-suite%2Fs-routing%2Farticles%2Fwhy-douglas-sea-state-3-should-be-eliminated-from-good-weather-clauses%2F&psig=AOvVaw2nut4fiPQDOk2ayt4u7EAw&ust=1666011874667000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA0QjRxqFwoTCPilhoLo5PoCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE
mean wave height
mean zero-crossing wave period
significant wave period T is defined as the mean period of the

highest one-third of waves, T1/3 (pronounced as T-one-third):
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
mean of the highest one-tenth of waves is used to define

T1/10 (T-one-tenth):
significant wave height =
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectrum
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
3.1 Hidrodinámica del
oleaje : Irregular Wave
Theory
https://docplayer.es/80482207-Treball-fi-de-carrera.html
Wave spectrum
We can exactly reproduce that record as the sum of a large number of harmonic wave components (a Fourier series):
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectrum
It is more meaningful to distribute the variance spectrum of each wave component , because the
linear theory for surface gravity waves shows that the energy of the waves is proportional to the variance.
variance density spectrum
The variance density spectrum gives a complete description of the surface elevation of ocean waves in a statistical
sense, provided that the surface elevation can be seen as a stationary, Gaussian and ergodic process.
the random surface elevation η(t), is equal to the sum of the individual variances (‘the variance of the sum
is the sum of the variances’):
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectrum
The interpretation of the variance density spectrum as the distribution of the total variance of the sea-surface
elevation over frequencies.
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectrum
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectrum
the energy of the waves can be expressed in terms of thevariance of the surface elevation because the energy of a
harmonic wave (per unit horizontal ocean surface area) is equal to the mean-square elevation times the gravitational
acceleration g and the density of water ρ so the total energy (i.e. summed over all
components; per unit horizontal ocean surface area) is
We can therefore multiply the variance density spectrum Evariance( f ) = E( f ) by ρg and obtain the energy
density spectrum as
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectrum
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Directional wave spectrum
The two-dimensional spectrum of wind-generated waves (shown in polar co-

ordinates).
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Directional wave spectrum
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
The frequency–direction dispersion

of ocean waves transforms
irregular, short-crested wind-sea
waves in a storm into regular,
long-crested swell outside the
storm.
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectrum
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Wave spectra statistics (Short-term statistics)
When the random sea-surface elevation is treated as a stationary, Gaussian process, then all its statistical
characteristics are determined by the variance density spectrum E( f ). These characteristics will be expressed in
terms of the moments of that spectrum, which are defined as
Momentos centrales:

~      n S   d
m n
0
Relación con los momentos:
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536

for ii=1:h;
data=ASTs(aa:bb,1);
N=length(data);
fs=4; %Hz)
t=[1:length(data)-1]/fs;
df=fs/N;
g=fft(data(1:N));
moments of spectrum
g=2.*abs(g.^2)/(N^2 * df);
g=g(1:N/2); % calcular hasta N/2
freq=[1:N/2-1]*df; freq=freq';
T=1./freq;
m0=0; m1=0; m2=0; m3=0; m4=0;
for i=1:(N/2);
A=g(i)*df;
m0=m0+A;
m1=m1+(g(i).*A);
m2=m2+((g(i).^2).*A);
m3=m3+((g(i).^3).*A);
m4=m4+((g(i).^4).*A);
end
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
mean zero-crossing period
mean zero-crossing frequency
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
60 Tp
50
40
(Sw) [m2.seg]
30
20
10
0
0 0.5 1 1.5
[rad/s]
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Multidirectional wave spectra statistics
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
3.1 Hidrodinámica
del oleaje : Irregular
Wave Theory
Wave Climate analysis

(Long-term statistics)
Wave Climate analysis (Long-term statistics)

Punto A Punto B
Hs (m)
Wave spectra modelling
Fetch:
Area del océano sobre la que sopla un viento estacionario y uniforme.
El fetch se suele describir por una distancia, X (anchura suficiente).

Fetch meteorológico: Asociado al campo de vientos.
Fetch geográfico: Asociado al área de posible generación sobre el océano.
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Proceso de generación del oleaje por el viento y crecimiento del espectro:
Las oscilaciones de presión y el arrastre del viento generan ondas capilares que crecen en período y
amplitud.
En determinados momentos de su etapa de crecimiento las ondas alcanzan una situación límite que las hace
inestables, produciéndose la rotura.
La rotura provoca una pérdida de energía hasta que se restaura el equilibrio.
Otra contribución a la restauración del equilibrio es la transferencia de energía desde las frecuencias altas a
las bajas.
Las ondas de baja frecuencia generadas pueden llegar a viajar a mayor velocidad que el viento, por lo que se
establece otro mecanismo de pérdida de energía por rozamiento con la atmósfera.
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcSnj-13p_si56nv5DcxCVdXtM5a5bcwcKT0QxnaqxyZH3sJkXC5&usqp=CAU
2.3 Fuerzas y cargas sobre la estructura: Irregular Wave Theory Wave spectra modelling
Forma general de la función de densidad espectral:

Fully developed Sea = Oleaje totalmente desarrollado OTD
 p  B  q
S    A e
A, B, p y q son parámetros libres.
1

Frecuencia de pico:  p  q
 p   
B q
Fecth-limited Sea = Oleaje parcialmente desarrollado OPD
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
2.3 Fuerzas y cargas sobre la estructura: Irregular Wave Theory Wave spectra modelling
https://media.springernature.com/lw785/springer-static/image/chp%3A10.1007%2F978-981-10-6089-2_2/MediaObjects/334674_2_En_2_Fig6_HTML.gif
Triad wave–wave interactions (not

realisable in deep water)
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
Quadruplet wave–wave
interactions (realisable in deep
water)
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
The flow of energy through an

evolving JONSWAP spectrum
(deep water).
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536

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Ingeniería Oceánica y Costera

Tema 3: Ingeniería costera

Juan Gabriel Rueda Bayona

Linear wave/regular wave theory (Airy theory) in finite depth

Source: Chakrabart, 2005)

Group and phase velocity

Source: Chakrabart, 2005)

Formulas for linear wave theory

Source: Chakrabart, 2005)

Cp, Cg, velocities, accelerations, dynamic pressure.

Tip: identify Deepwater criterion and wavelength.

Tip: in Excel or MATLAB organize data, vectors and matrix

Tip: in Excel or MATLAB organize data, vectors and matrix

Time history of first- and second-order components

Fifth-Order Stokes Wave Theory

Example of five components of velocity for Stokes fifth-order theory

Fifth-Order Stokes Wave Theory

The normal wind-induced pressure moving

The wave-induced wind-pressure

A bird’s eye view of ocean waves, as recorded with stereo-

The WAVERIDER buoy at sea. The buoy

Two measurement techniques with

A pressure transducer, current meter or

Radar altimetry from a

The definition of a ‘wave’ in a time record of the

Time series statistics (Short-term statistics)

Time series statistics (Short-term statistics)

Time series statistics (Short-term statistics)

mean wave height

mean zero-crossing wave period

significant wave period T is defined as the mean period of the

Time series statistics (Short-term statistics)

mean of the highest one-tenth of waves is used to define

significant wave height =

variance density spectrum

The two-dimensional spectrum of wind-generated waves (shown in polar co-

The frequency–direction dispersion

Wave spectra statistics (Short-term statistics)

Wave spectra statistics (Short-term statistics)

Wave spectra statistics (Short-term statistics)

mean zero-crossing period

mean zero-crossing frequency

Wave spectra statistics (Short-term statistics)

Multidirectional wave spectra statistics

Wave Climate analysis

Wave Climate analysis (Long-term statistics)

Wave Climate analysis (Long-term statistics)

Wave spectra modelling

Area del océano sobre la que sopla un viento estacionario y uniforme.

El fetch se suele describir por una distancia, X (anchura suficiente).

Proceso de generación del oleaje por el viento y crecimiento del espectro:

La rotura provoca una pérdida de energía hasta que se restaura el equilibrio.

Forma general de la función de densidad espectral:

Fecth-limited Sea = Oleaje parcialmente desarrollado OPD

Triad wave–wave interactions (not

The flow of energy through an

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