SNLS Machine

 INTRODUCTION OF SNLS

 A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch

made by a sewing machine.
 The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper and a
lower thraed.
 The geometry of the lockstitch is controlled by:
 movements of the machine's needle
 movements of the machines feed dogs.
 Stitch performed by SNLS Machine
Straight
 Straight stitch geometry is produced when the needle
has no sideways movements and when the feed dogs
are following only in the normal forward "four motion"
movement.
 Because its two threads run straight and parallel, a
straight stitch is not stretchable.

Zigzag
 Zigzag stitch geometry is produced when the needle
moves rhythmically side to side while stitching,
 while the feed dogs are following only in the normal
forward "four motion" movement..
 Parts of SNLS
 Bobbin:
 It holds the thread inside the
machine.
 Bobbin is a small yarn package.
 It is used for storing specific
amount of sewing thread on it.
 Bobbin is a spool underneath the
bed that provides the lower
thread.
Bobbin case:
 It is used to hold the bobbin in the
particular place of the machine,
and to control lower thread
tension.
 This moves into position to catch
the top thread and form the stitch
as the needle is lowered into the
bobbin chamber.
Thread Tensioner:
 To maintain the uniform tension of
sewing thread (Top thread) during
sewing and to control the tension
(i.e. increase & reduce the
tension) of the swing thread
during sewing.
Thread Guide:
 It guides the thread in
position from the spool to
the needle.
Stitch Regulator:
 It is used for increasing or
decreasing the stitch
density per inch during
sewing.
Back tack lever-
 It reverse the stitch direction and
make back stitches to keep the
seam in position.
Throat plate:
 Throat plate is used for smooth
moment of fabric.
 A plate under the pressure foot
with an opening through which
the needle moves up and down
during stitching .
 this plate has seam guides
engraved to it.
 Feed dog:
 It is a toothed part that moves
the fabric advance to the
sewing area.
 The feed dog also regulates
the stitch length according to
how much fabric is passing
under the pressure foot as the
machine stitches.
 Pressure foot:
 It provides the
pressure on the
fabric during
stitching .
Hand wheel:
 A wheel located on the right
side of the machine
 it can be used manually to
raise and lower the needle and
to take up the lower thread
from bobbin.
Take up lever:
 To take up the top thread
from the cone.
 It’s up and down motion
feeds the fabric and
tightens the loop formed
by the shuttle.
Automatic bobbin
winder:
 To wind the sewing
thread into the bobbin.
Spool Pin:
 It is fitted with spool
stand to hold the
spool /cone.
Tension disc:
 The two concave discs put
together with the
convex sides facing each
other.
 The thread passes between
the two.
 The tension of the thread is
adjusted by a spring and nut
which increases or decreases
pressure.
 Needle bar:
 This is a steel rod to
hold the needle at one
end with the help of a
clamp.
 Its main function is to
locate the needle.
 Presser foot lifter:
 A lever attached to the
back side of the machine
for raising and lowering
the presser foot.
Slide Plate:
 A rectangular plate,
which facilitates the
removal of the bobbin
case without lifting the
machine.
 Peddler Treadle (foot
treadle):
 A metal platform on
which the feet rest.
Switch (power switch)-
 A key or button that turns
the machine on and off
 Oil Indicator:
It indicates the level of
lubricating oil.
SHUTTLE:
 It is below the
machine bed into
which bobbin is
inserted.
BED:
This is flat & rectangular area
used for working & Machine
mount
 Knee lifter-
 It basically lifts the
pressure foot for adjusting
the fabric.
 Head-

 The part of the

machine above the
table containing the
stitching mechanism.
Check Spring-
 It is a spring located at
the thread tensioner
 it checks the tension of
the spring while thread
take up lever pulls the
thread.
 FLAT BED SEWING MACHINE
 Model number: DDL9000B series
 This is Direct-drive, High-speed, 1-needle
Lockstitch Machine with Automatic Thread
Trimmer.
 The DDL-9000B is the top of the line lockstitch
machine developed by JUKI.
 This 1-needle lockstitch machine is provided with
a thread trimmer which operates at the highest
speed of its kind.
 a mechanism which promises smooth operations
and various technical features with power saving.
 Lubrication
 It is provided with not only a high-speed sewing capability,
but also a safety feature for preventing oil stains.
 • The needle bar and thread take-up components are not
lubricated.
 • For the hook section, the standard method of lubrication
is employed.
 • Face plate needle bar lubrication: Lubrication by grease
sealed in the needle bar lower metal
 • Hook: Forced lubrication by the plunger pump Quantity
of oil can be adjusted by the hook oil adjusting screw.
 • Lubricant can be fed to the oil tank through the arm
lubrication hole.
 Power saving Mechanism
Servomotor
 The latest compact-size servomotor has been
adopted. DDL-9000B has adopted the latest compact-
size servomotor as its driving source.
 This latest compact-size servomotor is an energy-
saving, highly efficient motor which is able to run under
a high torque and has a broader range of speed.
 In addition, the servomotor is installed with a direct-
drive system to transmit the motor power directly to the
sewing machine, thereby achieving improved power-
consumption saving, quicker response, quicker
startup, increased accuracy of the stop position and
stronger material penetrating force of the needle
Control box
 The new model control box SC-920, which consists
of an energy-saving mode, has been developed.
 This control box is the first one which provides an
energy-saving mode for the sewing machine.
 The power consumption during standby, when the
motor is at rest, is reduced by approximately 20%.
In addition, abundantly incorporated state-of-the-art
energy-saving features such as a compact-in-size
solenoid for the auto-lifter (optional) allow the DDL-
9000B to reduce power consumption, to increase
productivity and to be friendly to the environment.
 Design for achieving silent operation
 One of the eternal challenges of a sewing plant is the
improvement of the work environment.
 One of the factors to be improved is noise within the
plant.
 The DDL-9000Bss 1-needle lockstitch machine is the
sewing machine which is used most frequently in the
sewing plant.
 For this reason, the noise generating mechanisms
complies to eliminate any harsh noise.
 The major sources of noise are the one-touch type
reverse feed device, the wiper and the auto-lifter, which
have been designed aiming at the reduction of noise.
The resulting mechanisms' operating noise is reduced,
thus helping reduce operator fatigue.
Thread Trimming Mechanism
 Thread trimming speed has been doubled or more that
of the conventional model.
 Analysis of operator work has revealed that the
working rhythm substantially affects the productivity.
 By maximizing the thread trimming speed, the
operating rhythm can be improved.
 The DDL-9000B trims thread at least two times faster
than the conventional thread trimmer. This improves
the responsiveness of the sewing machine during
changeovers between sewing and thread trimming
operations.
 The length of time elapsing from thread trimming at the
end of sewing to the start of a subsequent operation
can be shortened, thereby improving operator rhythm.
 Motions in lock stitch sewing machine

 The top shaft is driven from the motor via the drive belt.
 The bottom shaft is driven from the top shaft via the
toothed belt and gear wheels.
 The rotary hook is driven by the hook shaft
 The feed dog is lifted by the feed dog eccentric and driven
forward by feeder rocker shaft .co-ordination of feeder bar
and needle bar is controlled by the feeder eccentric.
 The incremental feed length is determined by stitch length
setting, stitch setting shaft and feeder rocker shaft.
 6. The top shaft is provided with a crank and connecting
rod, which converts the shaft’s rotation into vertical
movement of needle bar.
 Stitch formation (horizontal hook)
 The needle thread is interlaced with a 2nd thread (under thread) by
means of a hook, the lock stitch machine can be distinguished by
the winding device provide for the bottom thread.

 Phase 1 The needle is inserted into the material

 Phase 2 As the needle moves upwards from its lowest position, the
needle thread forms a loop, which is caught by the point of the
hook

 Phase 3 The hook enlarges the needle thread loop

 Phase 4 The needle thread is guided around the bottom thread spool

 Phase 5 Interlacing begins

 Phase 6 The take-up lever tightens the stitch into the material. The
 Features & Applications
 Limited amount of sewing with limited supply of
under thread(bobbin thread)
 Difficult to unravel, more strength and durability.
 The interlacing point of the two threads is usually
located in the middle of the material being sewn.
 4. Both sides of the seam have the same
appearance.
 5. The thread consumption is about 2.5 times
the length of the seam depending on the material
and SPI.
 6. Most common stitch types are 301, 304, 308,
2*(301).
 FEEDING SYSTEM

Feed Mechanism

Feed mechanism controls the direction of fabric

movement and the amount of fabric movement for
successive stitches

Feed mechanism is the basic motion of the sewing

machine, the material being sewn must move so
that each cycle of needle motion involves a
different part of the material. This motion is known
 Principles of material feed.
 The feed-dog is moved upward &
forward through slit on throat plate.

 It grips the under side of material being

sewn & advances it by a distance of
one stitch length

 Contact between feed-dog & material is

controlled by pressure foot.

 The feed-dog moves down & moves

back to its starting position.

 Various types of stitching devices used

depend upon type of seam & material
type.
 The three main components which facilitate feeding
are:

 Presser foot: The presser foot is required to hold the

fabric firmly against the throat plate and help avoid
flagging.
 Feed dog: Feed dog consists of toothed surface
which rises through the opening in the throat plate.
The purpose of feed dog is to move the fabric along by
a predetermined amount between successive stitches.
 Throat plate: It is also known as needle plate. It is the
passive most part of the machine. It provide smooth
and flat surface over which the material passes as
successive stitches are formed.
 Objective of feeding mechanism is:
 To advance the fabric in the feeding zone of the
sewing machine.
 To decide the length of individual stitch (SPI)
 Appropriate feed mechanism is selected to
confirm case in sewing operation & to avoid
different sewing faults.
Following are the parts which may changed according to the requirement:

 Needle type - for light weight fabrics sharp, ballpoint,

stretch needles are used so that holes don`t occur. For
medium weight fabrics sharp, ballpoint and leather/vinyl
needles are used. For the heavy weight fabrics denim,
leather and vinyl needles are used as these can easily sew
through the thick fabrics.
 Needle size – for light weight fabrics 9/65, 10/70, 11/75 are
used. For medium weight fabrics 14/90 and 11/75 and for
heavy weight fabrics 16/100 and 18/110 needles are used.
 Hook – for light and medium weight fabrics sharp edged
hook is used whereas for heavy weight fabrics snub hook is
used due to which the time taken by the hook in getting the
thread from the needle scarf, is increased.
 Feed Dog - since light weight fabrics are difficult
to sew, feed dog used has more Teeth per inch
(TPI) in order to increase the friction and for the
heavy weight fabrics less friction is required
therefore TPI is less.
 Number of needles – For light fabrics- DA x1, for
medium weight – DB x 1and for heavy weight
fabrics- DP x 5.
 Following parts need to be set
 Sewing speed – for light fabrics and medium weight
fabrics- 5000 rpm and for heavy weight fabrics speed is
4500rpm (4000 rpm or less when stitch length is 4mm )
 Maximum stitch length – for light weight fabrics stitch
length is 4mm and for medium and heavy fabrics it is
5mm.
 Height of feed dog– for light fabrics the height of feed
dog above the throat plate is0.6mm to 0.8 mm, for medium
weight fabrics- 1.00mm and for heavy fabrics it is1.00 to
1.2mm.
 Presser spring – for light fabrics the presser spring is set
at 5-7mm, for medium weight fabrics it is set at 4-5mm and