AppIiqu Of Gujarat

n|story
n the19
th
century, the Kathis, an agro-pastoral community of the
Kathiawar region of Gujarat and their Muslim associates, the
Molesalaams, or the landowning community are known to have
produced intricate appliqu work.
Some of the surviving specimens show a wide representation of
stylised human and animal figures in cotton and silk cloths, bandhani
(tie and dye), or patola cloth.
n the neighbouring state of Rajasthan, the Oswal Banias have a
similar tradition of stitching large appliqu canopies with a range of
panels or squares in different colour combinations, for marriages.
The Rajputs, Satwaras and various other cattle-breeding
communities also produce similar appliqu art to enhance the beauty
of their chandarvo (canopies), dharaniyo (quilt covers), amongst other
things.
ra| rocr Cf App||q
Applique, which is a French term, is a technique by which the decorative effect is
obtained by superposing patches of coloured fabrics on a plain basic fabric.
The edges of the patches being in some form of stitchery.
t is distinct from patch work in which small pieces of cut fabrics are usually joined
side by side to make a large piece of fabric or for repairing a damaged fabric.
The basic material for applique is cloth.
Flat motifs are first cut from cloth and specially prepared motifs are made separately.
f more than one of the same cut motifs is required, than a stencil is used.
These cut and specially prepared motifs are then superimposed on a base
cloth in predetermined layout and sequence.
The edges of the motifs are turned in and skillfully stitched on to the base cloth or
stitched by embroidery or without turning as necessary.
The specially prepared motifs may be coloured or white.
$titches Used
The stitching process varies from item to item and come under six broad
categories, namely, (a) bakhia,(back) (b) taropa,(herringbone)
ganthi,(chain) (d) chikana, (e) button-hole, and (f) running
$peciaIity Of Gujarati AppIique
Gujarat applique is mainly based on patchwork, in which coloured
and patterned fabrics are finely cut in different sizes and shapes.
t is then sewn together on a plain background to form a
composite piece.
The whole charm of an applique lies in the contours of each
individual inset piece.
The stitch done on each individual bit is not hidden, but adds to
the art. nfact, bright colours of thread are used to show out
distinctly.
Some of the specially prepared motifs have exclusive embroidery
work and some have mirror work.