Hair dye

What is hair dye?

• Hair Dye or Hair Color: is a chemical

tool that is used to change the color of
a person's hair.
• used mostly to change gray hair; a sign
of an advanced age.
• Younger people that used hair dye use
it as a fashion
About our Hair:
•Human hair is made of keratin, water and dead cells
•Each strand of hair is made up of three layers;
Cuticle ,Cortex& Medulla
• Cuticle is made up of scale-like, overlapping protein cells which
protect the
• Natural black hair color is due to melanin clusters of dispersed within
the colorless keratin-based cortex of hair.
Types of Hair color
• most common classifications
• Temporary
• Semi-Permanent
• Demi-Permanent:
– Oxidative Deposit -Only
• Permanent:
– Non-Oxidative
– Lift/Deposit
– Oxidative
1.Temporary :Coating action(adsorbtion)
• The pigment molecules are large and cannot
penetrate the cuticle layer.
• Instead, the color particles remain adsorbed (closely
adherent) to the hair shaft
• and are easily removed with a single shampooing
• There is a physical action (coating) on the hair, not chemical action
(penetrating).
• Does not lighten or change the structure of the hair.
• These are the least hazardous of all dyes. (food grade dyes )
• Spray-on temporary hair coloring that contain metallic salts can build-
up and can cause adverse chemical reactions with future chemical
services.
• These dyes are flammable
2.Permanent hair colors:
• are the most popular hair dye products
• Permanent hair-coloring dyes consist of three components. They are:
• Primary intermediates & Couplers(the color)
• Oxidants (Hydrogen peroxide )
• An alkali usually ammonia
• The primary intermediates form color on oxidation.
• The modern permanent dyes consists of solutions of
paraphenylenediamine (PPD), or similar “para” compounds.
• Couplers will react with the oxidized products of the primary
intermediates and form dyes which are then applied to hair.
• Hydrogen peroxide is a major factor in permanent hair coloring
techniques
• Hydrogen peroxide diffuses the melanin, and lightens the natural
color of hair
• Ammonia causes cuticle to swell and separate
Semi-Permanent Hair Colors. 2
Also known as:
• Oxidation Tints
• Penetrating Tints
• Peroxide Tints
• Synthetic Organic Tints
• Para-dyes
• “Tints”
2-Semi-permanent hair
color:
• Uses smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to
partially penetrate the hair shaft.
• the color survives repeated washing, 4-5 shampoos.
• Semi-permanents contain no, or very low levels of developer,
peroxide or ammonia.
Semi-permanent hair color
Chemicals of Concern :
• use Aniline Derivative Tints from Para- Phenylediamines
• Darker dyes have more phenylediamine

Health Affects
– Skin, eye, respiratory sensitizer
– Severe allergies – e.g., facial and neck swelling
– Dermatitis – e.g., rashes
– Mutagenic when mixed with peroxide
Semi-Permanent A.
- Traditional
• Azo Colors
• Derived from from benzidine, a known
carcinogen.
• Can revert back to benzidine in the
body.
• Azo Direct Black 38 and Direct Blue 6
Are carcinogenic in their own right.
Mechanism of hair dyeing
• Uses a medium size molecule.
• causes a slight alkaline reaction to swell the hair shaft, causing the
cuticle to rise.
• This allows some color molecules to enter the cortex, and some to coat
the cuticle.
• A neutral or slightly acid after-rinse is used to stop the alkaline swelling
reaction, allow the cuticle to close, and trap the color molecules inside.
• Less damaging than permanent dyes since it does not lighten.
• Causes a mild chemical and physical change in the hair shaft.
Semi-Permanent - . 2
Traditional
• Less damaging than permanent dyes since it does not lighten.
• Causes a mild chemical and physical change in the hair shaft
B. Semi-Permanent - Polymer
• Polymers coat the hair shaft rather
than penetrate. They do not change
The melanin.
• Heat is used to deepen the color
Penetration rather than the use of
the chemical oxidation process
Demi-Permanent : . 3
(Oxidative Deposit-Only)
• Process falls between the semi-permanent and permanent dye
process.
• Uses a catalyst such as a 10% mild peroxide developer with a non-
ammonia alkali to swell the cuticle, allow dye molecules to penetrate
into the cortex and deposit color inside the hair shaft.
• A neutral or slightly acid after-rinse is used to stop the alkaline
swelling reaction, allow the cuticle to close, and trap the color
molecules inside.
• The mild chemical reaction does not lighten the melanin and hardly
changes the hair structure.
• Chemicals of Concern :
• Uses mostly aniline derivative dyes.
• The alkali (high pH) used to swell the cuticle is from either

• monoethanolylamine (MEA) or
amino methyl propanol (AMP).

• MEA is a pH adjuster that can release

nitrosamines which cause cancer in animals
and can cause severe eye irritation in humans
Demi-permanents : advantages over
permanent color:
• no lifting (removal) of natural hair color
• the final color is more natural looking.
• safer, especially for damaged hair,
• wash out over time (typically 20 to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is
less noticeable ,
• if a change of color is desired, it is easier to achieve.
Permanent :. 4 Oxidative/Lift Deposit
• These hair colors have the smallest molecule which makes it easier for
them to penetrate the hair shaft and the scalp.
• This process has the greatest impact on the hair structure, which is
permanently changed, and the cuticle remains slightly shifted
• Formulas can have ranges of:
– Phenylediamine .08% to 6%
– Hydrogen Peroxide 3 – 10% 20 – 40%
- Ammonia
- Resorcinol
Mechanism of hair dyeing(Oxidative/Lift
Deposit)
• An alkaline reaction(most often ammonia ) causes the cuticle to swell,
allowing hydrogen peroxide and dye to enter.
• The hydrogen peroxide “oxidizes” (diffuses) the melanin, and “lifts”
(lightens) the color.
• The hydrogen peroxide also causes the dye to “develop” and
“deposit” color.
• A neutral or slightly acid after-rinse stops the alkaline reaction, allows
the cuticle to Close, and traps the color molecules inside
Permanent?
• Permanent color is truly permanent and will not wash out, although it
may fade. New hair regrowth will obviously be in the hair's natural
color. .
• Permanent hair color is the only way to dye dark hair into a lighter
shade, and it must be done in two parts: First, the hair is lightened,
then color is applied.
Permanent:. 5
Non-Oxidative
• Vegetable Tints:
– Made from plant materials and henna
– Builds up layers in hair shaft
• Problems with Vegetable Tints:
• Henna – can trigger asthma and other allergic
reactions
• Metallic Dyes:
– Contain metallic salts from lead acetate, lead, copper, cobalt, silver nitrate
– Not used professionally .toys ,furs
• Compound Dyes:
– Mix of vegetative tints and metallic dyes
– Not used professionally

• Problems with Metallic Dyes

• Can cause headaches, scalp irritation, facial swelling, contact dermatitis, lead
poisoning, and hair breakage, toxic,.
• Bottles of metallic dyes can explode
Paraphenylene Diamine(PPD)

• paraphenylenediamine,
or
• 1,4-diaminobenzene,
• or 1,4-phenylenediamine
 PPD
• This derivative of aniline, aromatic
amine, is a
• colourless solid when pure but
are partially oxidized and appear
yellowish.
• Some misinformation has led to
PPD being described as a black
mineral from the bank of the
River Nile.
• This gave PPD an undeserved
distinction as being natural.
Uses
• PPD is a precursor to aramid
plastics and fibers such as Kevlar.
• dyeing furs
• Photochemical measurements
• azo-dye manufacturing
• as a hair dye
• mixed with ‘Henna’ to color
palms of hands and soles of feet
and to dye hair a dark red shade
• it was also used to kill wild
animals when added to food .