• YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM

Count / Yarn number / Linear density: Count of yarn is a

numerical expression which defines its fineness.
Count is a number which indicates weight/unit length or
length/unit weight of yarn.
Yarn numbering systems
Direct system:
Count of yarn is the weight of a unit length of yarn (weight/length).
a) Denier: The denier system is used for all filament yarns.
in this system, heavier and usually thicker filament yarns are designated
by higher denier numbers.
Very fine yarns, of 10 denier are used in sheer hosiery.
The heavy, coarse yarns used in carpeting are around 2000 denier.
The denier system is called a direct system because higher denier
numbers designate heavier (thicker) yarn. Thus, the system is based on
weight in grams per 9000 metres..
A 1-denier yarn – yarn in which 9000 meters, if weighed, would equal 1
gram.
A 2-denier yarn – yarn in which 9000 meters, if weighed, would equal 2
grams.
A 100-denier nylon filament has twice the weight of an equal length of 50-
denier nylon filament.
Direct system:
Count of yarn is the weight of a unit length of yarn.
(weight/length).
b) Tex: Defined as the weight in grams of 1000 metres of
material.
c) Decitex: Defined as the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of
material.
DIRECT SYSTEM
If a skein of 100 m of filament viscose yarn weighs 1.67 g,
calculate its denier.

Ans: The denier of a yarn is the weight in grams of 9000 m.

Denier = 1.67  9000 = 150.3 denier
100
DIRECT SYSTEM (weight/length)
The length is kept constant and weight is measured to calculate
yarn number.
In this system, yarn number and yarn thickness are directly
proportional to each other, when the yarn thickness
increases, yarn number will also increase.
Indirect system (length/weight):
Each system establishes a number of hanks (skeins) of yarn that make
up either a pound or a kilogram of yarn weight.
Length of a unit weight of yarn.
Also, referred as the yarn count system.
The size of the hanks used is different for the different natural fibers, as
follows:
Cotton count: The number of hanks of 840 yards in 1 pound.
Linen count (linen lea): The number of hanks of 300 yards in 1 pound.
Woolen count: The number of hanks of 1600 yards in 1 pound.
Worsted count: The number of hanks of 560 yards in 1 pound.
Metric yarn count: The number of hanks of 1000 meters in one
kilogram.
In Indirect system, higher the count, the finer is the yarn.
Indirect system (length/weight):
In this system, weight is kept constant and the length is measured to
calculate the yarn number.
The yarn number and thickness are inversely proportional, when the
yarn thickness reduces, yarn number will increase.
INDIRECT SYSTEM
Several classifications are used for determining yarn counts. These
classifications are called yarn-count standards and are different for each
fiber-spinning system.
The yarn-count standard represents the number of yards in one pound of a
number 1 count of that specific yarn. The following standards are in general
use:

System Weight unit Length unit

Cotton-English, Ne 1 pound Hank of 840 yards
Cotton-French, Nf ½ kg Hank of 1000 mts.
Cotton-Metric, Nm 1 kg Hank of 1000 mts.
Spun silk 1 pound Hank of 840 yards
Linen 1 pound Lea of 300 yards
Worsted 1 pound Hank of 560 yards
Woolen (Run) 1 pound Hank of 1600 yards
Woolen (American cut) 1 pound Cut of 300 yards
Systems of yarn numbering
Indirect system (length/weight):
A number-1-count cotton has 840 yards in 1 pound of the yarn,
A number-1-count worsted has 560 yards in 1 pound of the yarn.
Thus, a 20s cotton count would be finer than a 20s worsted count
because the former has 16,800 yards per pound and the latter
has 11,200 yards per pound.
Yarn numbering systems
Indirect system
A 50-count spun yarn has twice the weight (thickness) of a 100-
count spun yarn. The weight of the yarn is indirectly proportional
to the yarn count number.
Eg: Cotton yarn which is used for sheer voile fabrics, may be as fine
as 100 count, whereas thicker yarns used in many poplin fabrics
may be a 30 count.
In the yarn count system, the yarn count number is inversely
proportional to weight. This system, therefore, is indirect.
Indirect system
Expression of spun yarn count
The method of expressing yarn size of spun yarns differs by the fiber
content. Yarns spun on the cotton count system, for cotton and
cotton-blends, are designated as c.c. for cotton count.
May also be specified as Ne for Number English and cc could be
replaced with Nec.
Cotton and cotton-blend yarns are expressed by two numbers. The
first is the yarn size,
second indicates the yarn ply.
Eg: 50/1 : a size-50 single yarn
60/2: 60 two-ply or 60’s two.
Indirect system
Expression of spun yarn count
Worsted, worsted blends, and acrylic fibers are spun on the worsted
count system and are designated by w.c. or New.
Worsted yarns are indicated in the reverse order.
1/50 (referred to as one 50 or singles 50) is a singles yarn of 50-
count size.
2/40 yarn is two size-40 yarns plied together. This yarn is called a
two-40s yarn.
Indirect system
Expression of spun yarn count
Woolen and woolen blends yarns are designated by the term run, or
Nar such as 4-run yarn.
Linen yarns are expressed by the term lea, or Nel, which are used
for flax, jute, hemp, and ramie fibers. Eg: 50-lea or 130-lea yarn.
Spun yarns can also be expressed in the metric system. The yarn
size is indicated using the term metric. Eg: a 50-count metric yarn
would be designated as a 50’s metric.
Ply Yarn counts and Singles equivalent
Spun yarns that are plied are expressed as:
Eg: 40/2 (cotton type). Two yarns of 40/1 each have been twisted
together.
the singles equivalent of a 50/2 is 25 count, and of a 45/3 is 15
count.
Filament yarns are rarely plied. If plied, the yarn would be expressed
as:
Two-ply 40 denier. The singles equivalent of such a yarn would be
80 denier.
 RESULTANT YARN COUNT
CALCULATION
Resultant yarn count in Direct system
N = N1 + N2 + N3

Resultant yarn count in Indirect system

1= 1 + 1 +1
N N1 N2 N3
INDIRECT SYSTEM
A lea (120 yd) of cotton yarn weighs 25 grain, calculate its count
in the cotton system.

Cotton count = Length in yards

Weight in pounds  840
= 120
25/7000  840
= 40s
INDIRECT SYSTEM
A lea (120 yd) of cotton yarn weighs 2 grams, calculate its count
in the English system.

English count = Length in yards

Weight in pounds  840
= 120
2/453.6  840
= 32.4 Ne
INDIRECT SYSTEM

Worsted number = Length in yards

Weight in pounds  560

Woolen Run = Length in yards

Weight in pounds  1600

Woolen Cut = Length in yards

Weight in pounds  300
THREAD SIZE
Designates the linear density or mass per unit length of the thread –
thickness or diameter of the sewing thread.
Thread size numbering systems are determined by a fixed weight or
fixed length system.
The most common thread size systems are English count (cotton
count), metric count, denier, decitex, and tex.
English count is commonly used to express cotton thread
Metric count specifies synthetic; spun and corespun thread,
Denier and decitex identify filament threads.
TICKET NUMBER
Used by manufacturers to indicate thread size, it approximates how
much raw fiber is present in the unfinished sewing thread.
According to ASTM, ticket number is based on greige thread rather
than finished thread – finishing processes such as bleaching,
dyeing, stretching, mercerizing, or sewing finish application
significantly change the apparel thread size – it may become an
inadequate indicator of raw fiber present.
Numerical

1. Which of the following yarns is the finest ?

a. 20 Ne
b. 10 Tex
c. 15 Nm
Numerical

1. Which of the following yarns is the finest ?

a. 20 Ne
b. 10 Tex
c. 15 Nm
Convert into Ne:
a) 20 Ne
b) 59.05 Ne
c) 8.85 Ne

Convert into Tex:

a) 29.52 Tex
b) 10 Tex
c) 66.6 Tex

Convert into Nm:

a) 33.8 Nm
b) 100 Nm
c) 15 Nm

b. Is the finest yarn and c. is the coarsest yarn.

Numerical

2. Four yarns - 40 Tex, 20 Ne, 15 Denier and 20 worsted have been

plied together. What is the resultant count of the plied yarn in
Ne ?
Numerical

2. Four yarns - 40 Tex, 20 Ne, 15 Denier and 20 worsted have been

plied together. What is the resultant count of the plied yarn in Ne ?
40 Tex = 590.5 / 40 = 14.76 Ne
20 Ne
15 Denier = 5315 / 15 = 354.3 Ne
20 Worsted = 20 * 0.667 = 13.34 Ne
1/N = 1/14.76 + 1/20 + 1/354.3 + 1/13.34
I/N = 0.1955
N = 5.11 Ne