FACTORS AFFECTING FABRIC

CHARACTERISTICS
 FACTORS AFFECTING FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS

• There are factors which are affected on fabric properties, those are pointed out in the below:

• Fibre properties

• Yarn properties

• Fabric construction

• Weave structure

• Basic knit structure

• Fabric engineering

• Fabric finishing.
1. Fiber properties or characteristics 4. Weave structure
6. Basic knit structure
 Molecular weight,  Twill,
 Rib,
 Chemical content,  Plain,
 Plain,
 Molecular arrangement.  Satin,
 Interlock
2. Yarn properties or characteristics  Derivatives.
 Purl, Derivatives.
 Twist per inch i.e. TPI,
 Fibre arrangement, 5. Fabric engineering
7. Fabric finishing
 Fibre characteristics.  Yarn crimp,
 Electrical finishing,
3. Fabric construction  Yarn specification,
 Physical or
 Weft count & Warp count,  Weave structure, mechanical
finishing,
 Picks per inch i.e. PPI,  Fabric specification.
 Physiochemical
 Ends per inch i.e. EPI.
finishing.
 Properties of Textile Materials or Products

1. Elasticity 11. Compressibility

2. Lusture 12. Crease recovery
3. Drape 13. Frictional or surface characteristics
4. Abrasion resistance 14. Handle
5. Pliability 15. Regain
6. Air permeability 16. Strength
7. Thermal properties 17. Degradation
8. Electrical properties 18. Absorbency
9. Softness 19. Thickness
10.Stiffness 20. Durability
• Functional apparel will be subjected to a wide range of end uses such that a garment will be

affected by

• Internal (fibres, yarn fineness, warp/weft or course/;wale movement, fabric density,

thickness, fabric count) and

• External factors (external environment – exposure to sunlight, wind, rain, cold weather

conditions, fabric/human body interaction).

FACTORS AFFECTING PROPERTIES SUCH AS TEARING

STRENGTH, TENSILE STRENGTH, BURSTING STRENGTH

FACTORS AFFECTING THE TENSILE
PROPERTIES
• Test specimen length.

• The capacity of the machine.

• The effect of humidity and temperature.

• The previous history of the specimen.

• The form of the test specimen.

• Test Specimen length

• If we tested the specimen at a gauge length AB the strength recorded would be that of the
weakest point and the value would be S1.

• Hence, by testing the yarn at a shorter gauge length the apparent yarn strength has increased.

• This effect is known as the “weak link” effect.

• The capacity of the machine

• If a weak specimen is tested on a high-capacity machine the time to break it will be short, and
therefore an optimistic strength result will be produced.

• The capacity of the machine should be chosen so that the time required to break the specimen is
close to the recommended time.
 Effects of humidity and temperature
• The mechanical behavior of textile fibers and fibers structures is influenced by the amount of
moisture in the specimen.

• The moisture relationships of the various fibers types differ and naturally.

• The degree to which the fibers properties are modified will vary.

• The stress-strain curve for a hydrophobic material such as Terylene and when tested in the
dry state will be similar to curve obtained from a wet test.

• On the other hand the curve obtained when testing say acetate rayon dry and wet will exhibit
significant differences.
• The previous history of the specimen

• The mechanical properties of a specimen before and after straining changes mention ably.

• Chemical treatment may also affect the tensile properties of the specimen.

• The form of the test specimen

• The test specimen is a composite structure built up from individual fibers or filaments.

• Changes in the twist factors used cause changes in the yarn strength, elasticity, liveliness,

luster, and other yarn characteristics.

• In case of fabric, the warp way properties differ from weft properties.
FACTORS AFFECTING TEAR STRENGTH
• The GSM of the fabric indicates the tear strength. High the GSM means more the tearing
strength.

• The strength of the yarn has a direct relation to the tearing strength of the fabric. More the
yarn strength means more tear strength.

• Weave designs mean the plain weave could have lowest tear strength.

• Similarly, the spun yarn has low tear strength as compared to filament yarn.

• The knitted fabric is less strong as compared to woven fabric.

• The tearing strength tester is an appropriate tool to measure the tear resistance of various
materials including textiles and fabric
• During tearing test firstly, the cloth fails by the breaking of
the thread one at a time, or at least in very small groups.
Then distortion due to the skewing of the threads and
slippage of one set of threads over the other occurs.

• Here, stresses concentrated at a point on the fabric and

only one or at most few yarns share the load. This failure
causes the load being transferred to the adjacent yarn and
thus fails in turn.

• Thought greater extensibility or reduced frictional

constraints allow the yarns to bunch at the tear, and
therefore increase the tearing strength, it is clear that
higher yarn strength may not necessarily lead to higher
tear strength.
• Loose open structure or long floats in the fabric construction allows increase in thread density.

• Thus more threads present as bundles and the tearing strength be more in basket or rib than plain.

• The finishing treatment as easy care or coating reduce the tearing strength due to restrict in the

freedom of movement of the yarns under loading.

• So, it is clear that tearing strength is more dependent of the parameters of the fabric construction.

• Using Falling pendulum or Elmendorf gives the average force required to tear and propagate it.

• CRE principles shows irregular results by giving the tearing initiation, then subsequent reading is

the force to propagate the tear

FACTORS AFFECTING BURSTING STRENGTH TESTER
 Nature of the fabric
• Fabric tensile fracture strength, greater breaking strength increases bursting power.

• The huge difference between the latitude and longitude framework while the nature of the
yarn, the difference is big, bursting strength is tiny, as well as the difference is small, then
bursting strength is big.

• The impact of elongation and shrinkage (mainly knitted fabrics) & strength of inter-fiber
fixation point (mainly for non-woven material) the strength, the greater the fabric bursting.

• The effect between fiber friction, curl and impact. Higher amount of friction, curl and
entanglement caused greater bursting strength.
• Test area

• Whenever the test area is different, the bursting strength of the specimen varies widely, in
basic, with smaller the test area; its bursting strength value is greater.

• Test conditions
• Hydraulic test method, using fixed hydraulic rate 95mL / min, the value of the bursting
strength is larger than the bursting strength value of 20s,but it’s little distinction between
both, and the difference in 5% or less

• Test Instruments
• The test of bursting power of material is divided into hydraulic technique and method that is
pneumatic plus the devices utilized were hydraulic and barometric instruments.
• When the pressure will not exceed 80 kPa, the use of hydraulic and pneumatic two bursting
device obtained by the bursting energy results were not significantly different, and for
bursting pressure higher demands for special textiles, Hydraulic tool is more applicable.
• Yarn breaking strength and elongation of the impact.

• When the yarn in the fabric has high breaking strength and large elongation, the bursting
strength of the fabric is high.
• The thickness of the fabric is influenced by other same conditions, which is when the fabric is
thick and with strong bursting.

• Warp or weft density of the fabric.

• When under other same conditions, the fabric density is different.

• The top of the fabric will crack along the density of small tear, the gap was linear, and the
fabric bursting strength is low. The hooking strength of yarn.

• In the knitted fabric, the hook strength of the yarn is large, and the bursting strength of the
fabric is high.
• The fineness and the density of the yarn in the knitted fabric also influence the breaking strength
of the knitted fabric.

• Improve yarn density and coil density, bursting strength also increased.

• The effects of fabric bleaching, grinding, dyeing, enzyme washing, resin qualitative finishing
and other treatment.

• Under the influence of these different processes, the bursting strength of the fabric decreased.

• When using different processes and materials, the breaking strength is not the same degree of
decline.

• In general, the bursting strength of the darker color fabric is lower than the light color.