Cosmetics

Hair Products
 Hair Structure
 Hair consist of two parts;
1. The shaft (elongated part) which grows
from the dermis and protrudes above the
surface of the skin. It consists of three
layers:
– The cuticle (outer region) – encircles the
cortex
– The cortex (middle region) – long
strands of fibers run along the length of
the hair, interweaving so as to form a
multilayer structure of great strength and
elasticity.
– The medulla (a central canal).

2. The bulb, which is surrounded by the

epidermal outer sheath layer and the
inner root sheath layer.
 The cuticle serves multiple functions: it
safeguards the cortex beneath, controls
the hair fiber's water content, and
determines the hair's shine and texture.
Being translucent, the cuticle allows light
to reach the pigments in the cortex.

Hair conditioning products primarily focus on

the cuticle because it influences many visible
hair traits, such as texture. Healthy cuticles
contribute to hair that is shiny and soft,
whereas damaged cuticles lead to hair that
appears dry and brittle.
 The cortex is the primary part of the hair shaft,
made up of elongated cortical cells that are
densely packed with keratin filaments and a
matrix of sulfur proteins. These cells have a
distinctive microstructure that imparts
significant strength and elasticity to the hair.
Additionally, the cortex features variable air
pockets within the cells and the spaces between
them. It also contain melanin, which is
responsible for giving hair its color.

The medulla (core) is composed of flattened, cornified cells. It is viewed as a

framework of keratin supporting thin shells of amorphous material bonding air spaces
of variable size.
 Abnormal Hair Loss
 It is reasonable to shed up to 100 telogen hairs each day.
 The signs of abnormal hair loss are as follows:
– When more than 100 telogen hairs are shed in a day,
– When the hair starts to visibly thin out

 Some factors shorten the anagen phase, and prolong telogen

phase thus considerable percentage of hair fall out, and with
continuing fall of hair, baldness becomes obvious.
 Any change in the pattern of the hair (too much hair, too little hair,
change of color) may cause emotional consequences.
Anagen phase (Growth Phase): This is the
longest phase, lasting anywhere from 2 to 8
years. During this period, hair grows
continuously.
Catagen phase (Transition Phase): Lasting
about 2 to 3 weeks, this phase marks a
transition where hair growth stops and the hair
follicle shrinks.
Telogen phase (Resting Phase): This phase lasts
about 3 to 4 months. In this stage, the hair
doesn't grow but doesn't fall out either. After
this phase, the hair follicle re-enters the
anagen phase, and new hair begins to grow,
pushing the old hair out.
 Factors that Increase Hair Loss
1. Aging render terminal hair into vellus, due to decreased
function of hair matrix cells that produce hair, decreased blood
flow causing shortage in nutrients, increased sensitivity of
androgenic hormones and excess secretions of sebum that
affect the healthy environment of hair growth.

2. Malnutrition: The growth rate of hair fiber depends on

abundance of amino acids required for protein synthesis,
malnutrition cause severe disruption of hair growth.
 Factors that Increase Hair Loss
3. Pulling or stretching the hair:
– Damage the root, weakening it and making the hair shed more
readily.
– E.g. combing curly hair in the opposite direction to its
natural growth, over vigorous brushing or over vigorous
massaging of the scalp when washing or drying it.

4. Local pressure on the scalp

– Uncommon problem, which is probably caused by
interference with the local blood supply to the scalp
– E.g. In infants who sleep on their backs, a bald area often
appears at the back of the head
 Factors that Increase Hair Loss
5. Externally Applied Substances
– Most hair products claiming reviving hair do not even
reach the hair root, nor are they absorbed into the root,
which is located deep in the dermis, except minoxidil
which is a prescription drug.
– Certain toxic substances, whether absorbed into the body
or applied locally, may damage the hair follicles.

6. Local Heat
– High temperatures near the hair root can cause damage
(electric equipment's or too hot and vigorous shower).
 Alopecia (Hair Loss)
 Alopecia areata: Round patches of total hair loss, usually
from the scalp. The cause of alopecia is unknown; the hair
usually grows back.
 Male pattern baldness: The most common type of hair loss in
men. Male pattern baldness usually includes either a
receding hairline, hair loss at the crown, or both.

Male pattern baldness Alopecia areata

 Alopecia (Hair Loss)
 Female pattern baldness: In women, hair loss usually includes
uniform thinning across the scalp, with a preserved hairline.
The, but hair loss rarely proceeds to baldness as in men, the crown
may be affected.
 Postpartum alopecia- hair loss after delivering a baby- is a form
of telogen effluvium and usually resolves without treatment.

Postpartum alopecia- Female pattern baldness

 Alopecia Treatments
 To treat hair loss, pharmaceuticals and cosmetic firms developed
new products claimed to contain effective ingredients to address the
above indirect causes of hair loss; include:
1. Nutrients - multivitamins
2. Blood flow promoters - Minoxidil
3. Androgenic inhibitors – Finasteride
4. Sebum reducing agents
5. Hair transplants:
• Surgery to remove skin and hair from the back of the scalp,
and transplant groups of hair follicles to areas of thin hair.
• Sebum reducing agents are commonly used in skincare and hair
care products to control oil production on the skin and scalp.
Here are some examples of common sebum reducing agents:

• Sulfate-based Cleansers: Ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate

and sodium laureth sulfate are effective at removing excess
oil from the hair and scalp. However, they can be harsh on
sensitive skin and hair, so they should be used judiciously.
• Salicylic Acid: This beta hydroxy acid helps break down scalp
oil and residue, and it can also help manage scalp conditions
like dandruff and psoriasis.
• Tea Tree Oil: Known for its antimicrobial properties, tea tree
oil can help reduce scalp sebum levels by keeping the pores
clear and reducing the likelihood of scalp acne and other oil-
related issues.
• Zinc Pyrithione: Often used in anti-dandruff shampoos, this
ingredient helps reduce scalp oil production in addition to its
antimicrobial and antifungal properties.
• Clay and Charcoal: These ingredients are increasingly popular in
shampoos for oily hair. They absorb excess oil and impurities from
the scalp, leaving the hair feeling clean and refreshed.
• Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone: These are types of silicones that
can help control oil production by providing a protective barrier
over the hair, which helps to prevent excessive moisture and oil
from saturating the hair shaft.
• Witch Hazel: This natural astringent can help normalize oil
production on the scalp when used in tonics or as an ingredient in
hair care products.
 Medicines to Treat Alopecia:
 Finasteride (Propecia):
– Synthetic anti-androgen taken orally to treat pattern
baldness, a form of androgenic alopecia in men.
– Approved finasteride to treat male pattern baldness taken
in pill form daily.

 Minoxidil (Rogaine):
– Minoxidil acts as a vasodilator that increases blood
supply to the follicle stimulating hair growth.
– Applied to the scalp, which can help prevent hair loss in
most people when used daily.
 Depilatories
 Depilatories are preparations used for the temporary
removal of unwanted hair.
1. The mechanical removal of hair (Epilation &
waxing)
2. Hair electrolysis
3. Laser hair removal
4. The chemical depilation
5. Shaving
 1- Mechanical Hair Removal
1. Electrical epilators: used to temporarily remove hair at the
follicle level.
2. Wax: remove the entire hair from the roots.
– A wax comes in two basic forms:
Soft Wax Hard Wax
Applied in a thin layer to the Applied in a thick layer to the
necessary area, a thin cloth or strip necessary area, left to harden, and
(that has wax already pre-applied) then the piece of wax
is applied over the skin, then the is quickly pulled off pulling the
cloth/strip is rapidly peeled off, hair with it.
pulling the hair with it.

• NOTE: Both types of wax should be applied in the direction of the hair growth
and removed in the opposite direction.
 1- Mechanical Hair Removal

 Advantage:
– The effect last longer than shaving, since the epilated
hair take with them the hair bulbs or the hair papillae,
before the hair starts growing in the follicle and reaches the
surface of the skin.

 Disadvantage:
– Painful, cause skin damage and subsequent infection.
 1- Mechanical Hair Removal
 Formulations:
– Home made epilating formula is based on caramelized sugar ,
lemon juice and glycerin.
– Camphor is often included for its cooling effect.
– Local anesthetic, e.g. benzocaine to reduce the pain.
– Antibacterial compound will reduce the chance of infections.
 Hard Wax

Soft Wax
 2-Electrolysis (Permanent)
 A very fine needle is inserted into a hair follicle, and
electrical current is applied. The electricity destroys the
follicle, preventing hair growth.
 This method is not practical as it is practiced in beauty salons
and by some dermatologists, expensive and time consuming,
since every hair must be treated individually, 25-100 hairs per
sitting.
 3- Laser Hair Removal

 A laser is aimed at the cells in the hair follicle, and the laser's
high energy destroys cells there, preventing hair growth. HOW?
 Highly controlled flashes of laser beams are selectively
absorbed by the pigment in hair follicles lying below the
surface of your skin  heat the hair follicle  damages
and destroys the regrowth potential of the follicle (without
damaging surrounding tissue).
 3- Laser Hair Removal

 Because hair follicle pigment is the lasers target tissue, white

hair is not substantially effected, but hair of any color is
effectively killed.

 The follicle must be in its active growth phase in order to

be destroyed by the laser and since hair follicles are usually in
different growth cycles at different times in relation to one another
3 - 6 or more treatments spread over several months are
required to assure the destruction of all hair follicles.
 4- Chemical Depilation
 Chemical depilatories soften and dissolve the hair at the surface
of the skin.
 Advantage: efficient in removing hair in 5-15 min.
 Disadvantage: they contain potentially irritating chemicals,
depilatories should always be used following a patch test on the
inner arm near the elbow.
 Active component (alkaline reducing agent): Thioglycollates.
 Calcium thio-glycollate with calcium hydroxide (pH 10-12.5), are less
odor, take longer time to act (5-15min), stable, non toxic and can be used
on the face.

SodiumThioglycollates
 5- Shaving
 Shaving is the removal of hair, by using a razor or any other kind of bladed
implement, to slice it down—to the level of the skin or otherwise.
 Shaving is most commonly practiced by men to remove their facial hair and
by women to remove their leg and underarm hair.
 Shaving can be done with:
1. An electric razor (called 'dry shaving') or beard trimmer.
2. A straight razor or safety razor (called 'manual shaving' or 'wet
shaving').

 Electric shavers do not cut the beard as close to the skin surface as a razor.
 Both electric and blade shaving result in the removal of skin, and the amount
removed depends on the pressure applied to the face.
 1- Dry Shaving Preparations
 Pre-electric shave preparations may not increase the quality of shave
but may assist in reducing skin damage.
 The beard should be dry when using an electric razor
 Forms of pre-electric shave preparations are :
1. Lotion based on an alcoholic solution, may be either:
• Astringents are intended to dry and stiffen the hairs and to
assist in raising them, menthol or camphor may be included to
give a cooling effect together with a suitable antiseptic.
• Oily type aim to deposit a film of lubricant on the face which
reduces the drag of the cutting head against the skin.
2. Talc stick or powder
• Talc is used to absorb perspiration and sebaceous secretions
from the skin and to confer its characteristic slip so that the
head of the shaver will glide smoothly over the face.
 After-Shave Preparations
 Are intended to alleviate the trauma of shaving because of
irritation and from the irritating effects of the shaving preparations
themselves.
 The forms range from:
– Simple after-shaves (hydro-alcoholic solutions of
fragrance)
– After-shave gels (hydro-alcoholic gels)
– After-shave balms (o/w emulsions, fragrant cream or liquid
used to heal or soothe the skin.) with or without alcohol.
 They calm the skin by providing either a cooling, anesthetic, or
astringent effect or any combination of these.
 2- Wet Shaving Preparations - Foaming
 The hallmarks of a good wet shaving preparation are
twofold :
1. To soften the hair (by hydration) to facilitate cutting.
2. To act as a lubricant between the shaving hardware
and the face

 The physical presentation of a foaming shave product makes

it ideal to supply moisture to the beard and serve as a “marker”
on the face.