KNITTING

Presentation By
Ms. Channa V S V B Deepthi
M. Sc, NET
Assistant Professor
 Definition
Knitting is a process of fabric forming by the interlooping
of yarns.

When one loop is drawn through another, loop stitch is

formed.
Stitches may be formed in horizontal or vertical direction.
 Introduction
Knitting is the second most frequently used method of
fabric construction.
The popularity of the knitting has grown tremendously
within recent years because increased versatility of the
techniques, the adaptability of many new man made fibers
and growth in consumer demand.
 KNITTING TERMINOLOGY
Wale: The series of vertical loops that run parallel to the
length of the knitted fabric are known as Wales.

Course: The series of horizontal row of loops which run

perpendicular to the length of the knitted structure are
called as course.
Stitches: Loop or stitch is the basic structural element of a
knit construction. Each loop has one head, two legs and two
feet.

Technical Face: The side of the knitted fabric that consists all
of face or knit loops, is called technical face of the fabric.
Technical Back: The reverse side of the technical face is the
technical back.
Open Loop: The open loop is one in which the loop forming
yarns does not cross at the bottom of the loop.
Closed Loop: In Closed loop, the legs of the loop cross so that
the loop closing takes place.
Face Loop: During loop formation, when the new loop
emerges through the old loop from back to the face (or front)
side, it is called as face loop or weft knit loop.
Back Loop: If the new loop passes from the face side to the
back side of old loop, it is called as back loop or weft purl
loop.

Closed
Open Loop Loop Face Loop Back Loop
 KNITTING NEEDLES
The knitting machines uses various needles i.e,
i) Latch needle ii) Compound needle
Hook
Hook

Latch

Butt
 KNITTING NEEDLES
 iii) Spring beard needle iv) Double latch needle
 CLASSIFICATION OF KNITTING
Knitted fabrics can be classified into two
general types:
1. Weft knitting
2. Warp knitting
 1. WEFT KNITTING
Weft knitted fabrics are produced by weft knitting where
one continuous yarns form courses across the fabric .
 There are four weft knit stitches:
Plain
Purl
Rib
Interlock

Weft Knitting
 1. a. PLAIN KNITTING
 The plain knit is the basic form of knitting and is most commonly
used knitted structure.
 This is made with one needle bed and one set of needle.
 Technical face has flat, vertical wales of loops.
 Technical back has dominant horizontal rows formed by heads and
feet of loops.
 Salient advantages include greater speeds & lower costs of
production, possibility of knitting light to medium weight fabrics.
 Common uses include sportswear, sweaters and T-Shirts.
 It is also known as Jersey knitting.
 1. b. Purl KNITTING
 Made with 2 needle beds and one set of needles which are double
hooked.
 This fabric has the same appearance on both face and back, which
resembles the technical back of a jersey knit.
 Purl knitted fabrics are thick, bulky and they do not curl.
 The maintenance of purl knitting machine is expensive and
production is slow, thus escalating the cost of the final product.
 Purl knits are mainly used for infant and children’s sweaters, stoles.
 1. c. rib KNITTING
 Rib knits are made with two needle beds and 2 sets of needles which
are arranged in an alternating manner.
 This fabric has same appearance on face and back with alternating
lengthwise rows of plain and purl stitches.
 The rib stitch has excellent widthwise elasticity, so it is extensively
used where snugness of fit is essential i.e, wrist bands, waist bands
and necklines of sweaters or other garments.
 They are also widely used in underwears and socks.
 1. D. interlock KNITTING
 Interlock knits are made with two needle beds and 2 sets of needles
which are placed directly opposite to each other and these needles
work alternately.
 Made by two rib fabrics interlooped with each other to produce a
double fabric i.e, interlock knit which is reversible.
 Interlock knit resembles the face side of a single jersey.
 The interlock knit fabric is firm and does not curl.
 2. WARP KNITTING
 In warp knitting, the work progresses length-wise, through the
intermeshing of loops in the direction of wale.
 The main advantage of warp knitted cloth is that, unlike weft knitted
fabric, it is not easy to unravel.
 However, these fabrics are not as stretchable as the weft knitted
fabrics.
 There are two types of warp-knitting that are most commonly seen:

 Tricot knitting

 Raschel knitting

Warp
Knitting
 2. a. TRiCOT KNITTING
 Tricot in french means ‘to knit.’
 The simplest tricot is made with one set of needles and two guide
bars.
 Spring beard and compound needles are used to knit these fabrics in
machines.
 Filament yarns of nylon, polyester, acetate or triacetate are generally
used to knit these structures.
 Tricot machine width is about 168 inches and the production is quite
high.
 Technical face has vertical wales and finer appearance than the back
which has horizontal courses.
 Its chief uses include lingerie, women’s dresses and blouses, men’s
shirts and sleep wear.
2. a. TRiCOT KNITTING
 2. b. RASCHEL KNITTING
The raschel knitting machines have 1-2 needle beds with latch
needle in a vertical position and up to 30 guide bars.
Large number of guide bars indicate greater design possibility.
Speed of these machines is lower than that of tricot machines.
Spun yarns can be used in raschel knit production.
A very diverse range, from heavy to sheer structures is
possible.
Uses of raschel knits include women’s dresses, men’s tailored
suits, sports wear, laundry bags, carpets, curtains, upholstery to
nets and laces.
2. b. RASCHEL KNITTING
WARP KNITTING Vs WEFT KNITTING
WARP KNITTING Vs WEFT KNITTING
THANK YOU