APPAREL

MANUFACTURING
Presentation By
Ms. Channa V S V B Deepthi
M. Sc, NET
Assistant Professor
 INTRODUCTION
A complete garment has to face several
processes from its order receiving to shipment.
 During garment manufacturing, a process flow

chart must be needed to complete an order

easily.
 Also, a process flow chart helps to understand

a garment manufacturing method that how the

raw materials are converted into wearable
garments.
Flow Chart of Apparel Manufacturing
Process
 A basic garment manufacturing flow chart is presented below:
Sample
Design / Sketch Pattern Making
Development

Marker Making Grading Production Pattern

development

Spreading Cutting & Bundling Sewing/Production

Shipping Pressing Q.A & Q.C

Export &
Incoterms Warehouse Branding
Documentation
SAMPLING
 SAMPLING
A sample is a product which represents a
group of product or lot.
 Thesample will reflect the quality and
workmanship of the exporter or manufacturer.
 Sampling is very important for garment
industry because the buyers usually place
orders after reviewing the quality of the
samples.
 It is one of key elements of the pre-production
processes in an apparel industry.

 The process of developing samples varies from

industry to industry based on the buyer’s
requirement and the style / type of the garment they
are dealing with.

 The typical process flow of sampling department

activity is provided below in Figure-1.
Fig. 1
 It is essential to understand that there is no
necessity to perform all these processes for any
single order.

 Based on the needs and requirements of the

customer, the steps can be selected.
 PURPOSE OF SAMPLING
◦ To allow the buyer to judge the production
capabilities of the manufacturer.
◦ To provide a means for making revisions in
the bulk production process.
◦ To let the manufacturer estimate the thread
and fabric consumption, and develop cost
quotations.
◦ To let the buyer know the potential of an
exporter.
 TYPES OF SAMPLES
 Too many samples have to be send to the buyers.
 The following gives out one procedure which represents effective
sample types;
 1) Development sample
 2) Proto Sample
 3) Fit Sample
 4) Size Set Sample
 5) Counter sample
 6) Ad or Photo Shoot Sample
 7) Salesmen Sample
 8) Pre Production Sample
 9) GPT Sample
 10) TOP Sample
 11) Shipment Sample
1. DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE
 This is the first sample of any design.
 Actually this is visualizing an idea in
three-dimensional from.
 It is made using the available substitute
fabric and sends to buyer to collect order
is called development sample.
 This sample is made with the sole purpose
of getting the style and look of the
garment.
 Buyers just need to review the style or the
design to make changes in this sample.
 Not all designs require this sample, so not
every designer or factory works with
these type of samples.
 2. PROTO SAMPLE
 Based on the comments from the development sample, the
proto sample is developed.
 The proto sample is the sample where the company

submits the requirement using exactly the same fabric and

trims.
 The buyer evaluates the capacity and quality of the

factory based on this sample.

 To develop proto sample, the buyer needs to specify the

following details like the technical specification for the

garment, paper pattern (sometimes), development sample
(optional), detailed instructions about print/embroidery or
appliques.
 This sample needs to be submitted by merchandiser
within 7–10 days.
 The merchandiser needs to submit at least 4–6 proto

samples based on the buyer requirement.

 If corrections received, they need to resubmit the proto

sample.
3. FIT SAMPLE
 Fit samples are to ensure the
adequate fit and fall of the garments
against a dummy or live model.
 This sample helps the buyer to

understand the company and

merchandiser and the clarity of their
understanding about their
requirements.
 After the buyer has approved the fit

sample, the final pattern, fit and

costing of the style is confirmed,
and no further changes are made.
 4. SIZE SET SAMPLE
 After the fit sample has been approved, the base pattern for
each size need to be graded, so samples could be created for
the entire size range.
 Size set sampling includes 2-3 samples of each size which are

made with the fabric and finishings intended for the final
product.
 After this is complete, mass production can start once the

brand gives their approval to the factories.

 Once the buyer is satisfied with every aspect of it, they seal the
sample and send it to the garment manufacturer as a symbol of
understanding between them that they are satisfied with the product
and want the manufacturer to make this product only in the bulk.
 These samples are called “Red sealed sample” and they are often used
at the final inspection stages by the quality checkers representing the
buyer.
 5. COUNTER SAMPLE
 After the size set and fit sample approval, the counter
sample is submitted for the buyer.
 The confirmation of this particular sample decides

whether the company gets the order or not.

 So, this sample is developed in all original fabric, trims

accessories, sewing threads, care labels, etc.

 Based on the counter sample approval, the buyer will

raise purchase order (PO) to the company.

 6. AD OR PHOTOSHOOT SAMPLE
 These samples are requested only if buyer is in need of
samples to promote their styles in media like TV ads,
promotional clippings, catalogues, etc.
 These samples are sent based on the size requests from

the buyer.
7. SALESMAN SAMPLE
 The salesman samples or SMS are
the samples that are used for
marketing and promotions of the
product range.
 They are made with the final fabrics
and final touches in the approved
basic sizes.
 These are generally put on display in
retail stores or exhibited at trade
shows to get orders from respective
retail channels to get the feedback
from the customers.
 These samples are also used to get
orders from the retailers.
8. PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE
 A pre-production (PP) sample is
the first sample made in the
actual production line of the
factory.
 Pre-production sample is the

pilot run sample, before starting

the production; the sample is
prepared with the original fabric
and all actual requirements.
 Acceptance of this sample
encourages the factory to start
the bulk manufacturing of the
goods.
9. GARMENT PERFORMANCE TEST (GPT)
SAMPLE
 GPT sample refers to the production
sample that is given for "Garment
Performance Test".
 These samples are used for a series of
tests that a brand would like to
evaluate before running the styles for
production.
 The tests can include shrinkage, seam
strength, colorfastness, wash fastness,
among others.
 These tests are generally performed by
the third party inspection agencies.
 10. TOP PRODUCTION (TOP) SAMPLE
 The quality control inspector representing a brand can visit the
factory at any time and pick a garment from the production line
for inspection.
 These samples are called "Top of production or TOP samples" and
they are evaluated to ensure that the bulk production is of the
same quality as the PP sample.
 TOP samples are also checked for their packaging.
11. SHIPMENT SAMPLE
 Few buyers may ask for the shipment
samples which factory needs to pull
from the actual shipment and sent to
them. The main purpose of this sample
is to assure buyer about the actual
shipment dispatch.
 Sometimes the buyer also asks these
samples for their future reference,
hence, all the shipped samples are
directly dispatched to the warehouse in
the different / same country.
 This sample will be with complete
packing details like tags, poly bag,
hangers, etc.
THANK YOU